Tangua and Yacuanquer are small highland towns in the department of Nariño, in the far south-west of Colombia, and Inantaz sits among their fields at roughly the latitude of the equator, on high ground above the valley of the Guáitara. This is the Andean altiplano of Nariño, a patchwork of potato, maize and pasture fields on steep slopes, with volcanoes rising behind. Galeras, the active volcano above Pasto, is not far to the north-east, and on a clear morning its cone dominates the view.
The roads in this region are demanding and beautiful. The Pan-American highway climbs and drops through the Andes with long bends and a mix of heavy lorries and small buses, so the pace is uneven. Side roads between Tangua and Yacuanquer are narrower, often with potholes and sudden gravel patches, and cattle or dogs can appear around any corner. Rain is frequent, especially in the afternoon, and mist often fills the valleys before noon. If you start early, you get cool air, sharp light and a road that smells of damp earth and woodsmoke.
Nariño has a distinct culture. The Pasto people, who lived here before the Incas and the Spanish, were known for farming steep land and for a fierce resistance to the early conquerors. Today the region is known for a local carnival, the Blacks and Whites carnival in Pasto in early January, which UNESCO recognised as intangible heritage, and for handicrafts such as barniz de Pasto, a decorative technique using a vegetable resin to inlay wood. Guinea pig, cuy, is a regional dish for celebrations, and people here often eat it roasted whole.
For fuel, do not rely on the small villages. The larger town in the data is Guaitarilla, but the main city in the area is Pasto, which has a full range of services, and Ipiales to the south is a good choice for the border region. Keep your tank healthy and carry some cash, since not every small shop takes cards. Altitude here is considerable, often above two and a half thousand metres, so the engine feels a little flat and you will notice the cold at dusk. A wool layer under your jacket is no luxury.