Nobody takes a motorcycle into the interior of Ujung Kulon, because there is no road to take it on. The park fills the far western tip of Java, a peninsula where the island simply runs out into the Sunda Strait, and Honje is its eastern block, a hilly, forested reserve of lowland rainforest and mangrove that is the first part you reach from the mainland. Beyond it lie the lowlands, the Peucang islands, and Gunung Payung, and the roads stop at the villages on the edge.
The park's fame rests on the Javan rhinoceros, one of the rarest large mammals on earth, and the last viable population lives here, very shy and rarely seen by anyone. The forest also holds banteng, Javan gibbons, leopards, mouse deer, and an enormous number of birds, and the peninsula was left to nature in part because of what happened in 1883. The eruption of Krakatau, whose island sits out in the strait and is part of the same wider area, sent a tsunami that swept over this coast, killed tens of thousands of people on both sides of the strait, and emptied the shore. The forest grew back over the old settlements, which is one reason the park exists.
The ride, then, is the approach. From the west Javan coastal towns the roads run along the sea, hot, humid and busy with trucks, scooters and goats, and the surface changes quickly from good asphalt to broken patches. Distances look short on the map and take much longer than expected, so leave early and plan for rain, which can arrive in a few minutes during the wet season. Dry months, roughly May to September, are kinder to a rider and to anyone planning a boat trip.
Entry to the park requires a permit and usually a local guide, and the rangers will tell you what is open, so ask before you go rather than turn up and hope.