At Lobith, a few kilometres east of here, the Rhine enters the Netherlands from Germany, and you can feel the river changing its mind about what it is. Within a short distance it splits into branches, the Waal, the Nederrijn and the IJssel, and spreads across a wide floodplain, the Bijland, of meadows, willow thickets and old river arms. In Roman times this was the frontier, and a fort at Herwen, called Carvium, guarded the river crossing with a garrison and a small settlement. The Roman road ran along the dike, and ships tied up at its harbour.
The floodplain is a different world from the rest of the country, because here the river rules. In winter and spring the water comes up and covers the fields, and sheep, cattle and wild horses graze in the uiterwaarden, the foreland meadows. Geese arrive in huge flocks, and white-tailed eagles and spoonbills have returned in recent years. Some of the old dikes have been moved back to give the river room, and the result is a patchwork of lakes, reedbeds and meadows.
The riding is calm and often beautiful. Dike roads run along the Pannerdensch Kanaal and the Waal, with views across wide water and fields, and farms sit on mounds above the flood line. The road surface is generally excellent, though narrow, and cyclists have priority. Wind blows from the west, and in winter the river fog is thick. During high water some roads in the floodplain can be closed, so check the local news after prolonged rain.
Lobith is a village of about three thousand with a couple of cafes, and fuel and supermarkets wait in Zevenaar. The border crossing into Germany is just beyond, and Emmerich on the German side has a long riverside promenade. Try a local asparagus dish in late spring, and coffee with a slice of vlaai. Early morning, with mist rising from the river and geese calling, is the finest hour.