Gapyeong is a river town in the mountains east of Seoul, where the Bukhan river is dammed to form Cheongpyeong lake, and the roads along the shore are among the best loved in the region. The town, at the gate of the high country, has about fifty-five thousand people, and its streets are full of cafes, pensions and shops catering to weekenders from the capital. The air is cooler than in the city, and the hills around the lake are covered in pine and oak.
The district has a surprising number of visitor attractions. Nami Island, a small tree-lined islet in the river reached by ferry or zip wire, was the setting of the television drama Winter Sonata, and draws crowds from across Asia. The Garden of Morning Calm, a landscaped park in the hills, is beautiful in all seasons, with lantern festivals in winter. In October, Gapyeong hosts a jazz festival on a river island, and thousands of people camp along the banks.
Gapyeong also has a serious history. In April 1951, in the Korean War, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and British soldiers held back a major Chinese attack in the valley, in what is known as the Battle of Gapyeong, and several memorials commemorate it. Walking among them is a quiet and moving experience. Local products include pine nuts, which grow on the mountain slopes and are sold in shops and used in porridge, tea and cooking.
For riders, the lake road is a fine, winding ride, with views of the water and the hills, and it offers plenty of places to stop. The roads are generally well surfaced, though busy at weekends, and it is best to ride on weekdays or early in the morning. Fuel and food are easy in the town. Chuncheon, twenty kilometres further, is famous for dakgalbi, spicy stir-fried chicken, and is a popular destination. Fog hangs on the lake on cool mornings, and in autumn the mountains turn red and gold. In winter, take care on shaded corners where ice may linger, and remember that motorcycles are not allowed on the expressways, so you must use the lake road and its parallel routes.