Two rivers meet at Yangpyeong. The North Han and the South Han join at a place called Dumulmeori, literally the meeting of two waters, east of Seoul, and the spot, with its ancient zelkova tree, misty mornings and old ferry landing, has become one of the most photographed in Korea. At dawn, mist rises off the water and fishermen's boats sit motionless, a scene that seems far removed from the megacity an hour away.
Yangpyeong County is a green, hilly region of farms, forests and rivers, a favourite weekend escape for people from Seoul. In its mountains stands Yongmunsa, a Buddhist temple with a ginkgo tree said to be over a thousand years old, one of the largest and oldest in Asia, which turns brilliant yellow in autumn. The area is also known for its organic farms and its riverside cafés.
For riders, Yangpyeong is the gateway to the east. Roads follow the rivers and climb into the mountains of Gangwon Province towards Seoraksan, one of Korea's most famous national parks. Motorcycles are not allowed on expressways in Korea, so riders use the national roads, which are often scenic and winding. Traffic can be heavy on weekends, especially in autumn, when crowds head east to see the leaves.
Yangpyeong offers fuel, convenience stores and cheap restaurants, and the riverside has many cafés and eateries popular with riders. Try a bowl of naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles, on a hot day, or a hearty stew in winter. Fill up here before heading into the mountains, where services become sparse and distances between villages grow.