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Food stop near Kisarazu

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Kisarazu is the Chiba end of the Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line, and for riders that alone makes it special. The Aqua-Line crosses the bay from Kawasaki in two halves: a long tunnel under the water, then a low bridge that skims across the surface for several kilometres into Kisarazu. In the middle sits Umihotaru, an artificial island with a parking area, restaurants and a deck with views over the bay, where on a clear day you can see Mount Fuji to the west and the towers of Tokyo and Yokohama to the north. It is tolled, and crosswinds on the bridge section can be fierce.

The town itself is an old port on the eastern shore of the bay. Its tidal flats are known for clam digging, shiohigari, a favourite family outing in spring and early summer, and asari clams turn up in local dishes. The temple of Shojoji is associated with a well-known folk song about dancing tanuki, the mischievous raccoon dogs of Japanese legend, and you will find tanuki statues around the town.

As a food stop and finish, Kisarazu has plenty to offer, from seafood restaurants near the harbour to family restaurants and convenience stores along the main roads. A bowl of clam ramen or a seafood rice bowl makes a fine end to a day.

The roads inland from Kisarazu lead into the Boso hills, with winding routes through forests and small valleys towards the Pacific coast. The hills are low but steep, and the roads can be narrow and twisting. Traffic is heavy around the Aqua-Line approaches on weekends, especially in the evening, when everyone heads back to Tokyo. Fuel is plentiful.

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