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Food stop near Itsukaichi

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Itsukaichi takes its name from the market that was once held here on days ending in five, a trading point where charcoal, timber and silk from the mountains of western Tokyo met merchants from the plains. It is now part of the city of Akiruno, a quiet town at the mouth of the Akigawa valley, where the suburbs of Tokyo finally give way to forested hills.

The Akigawa is a clear mountain river, popular for barbecues, swimming and fishing in summer, and its valley leads into the mountains of Hinohara and Okutama, the wild western edge of Tokyo Metropolis. The forests here are dense with cedar and cypress, planted after the war, and mixed with native broadleaf trees that turn red and gold in autumn. Waterfalls, gorges and mountain villages make it a world away from the city.

For riders, the area is a classic escape from Tokyo. The Itsukaichi Kaido leads into the valley, and the roads beyond climb into the mountains, with tight curves, steep grades and spectacular views. The Okutama Shūyū Road, a famous mountain toll-free road, links Hinohara and Okutama over the ridges, and it is very popular with motorcyclists, though it has seen restrictions on motorcycles at night after accidents. Traffic can be heavy on weekends, and the roads are narrow, so ride with care.

Itsukaichi has fuel stations, convenience stores and restaurants, making it a good stop before heading into the mountains, where services become scarce. Local restaurants serve soba noodles, a speciality of the area. The Izu Skyline lies far to the south-west, a long ride across the Kanto plain and around Mount Fuji.

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