Eucla is a tiny settlement on the Western Australian side of the Nullarbor, near the South Australian border, and it has a story that is out of proportion to its size. In the 1870s the telegraph line that connected Western Australia to the rest of the continent ran through here, and the Eucla Telegraph Station became an important link, with operators sending messages by Morse code to Adelaide and Perth. The old stone station building, now half buried in drifting sand dunes, is still there, and walking around it, with the wind whistling in the empty windows, is quietly moving.
Below the escarpment lies the Roe Plain, a flat expanse stretching toward the ocean, and just beyond the dunes the sea still rolls onto the beach where a long wooden jetty once stood. The ruins of the jetty are visible at low tide. Above, the highway climbs the escarpment on a gentle slope, with a lookout that gives a wide view across the plain, and in the right light the colours of the rock and sand are remarkable.
Eucla has a roadhouse with fuel, food and accommodation, but prices are high and hours are limited, so plan ahead and do not assume that anything will be open late at night. The nearest large town is a very long way off, and a breakdown can mean a long wait, so carry water, spare food and a way of calling for help, though mobile coverage is patchy. The locals are friendly and used to travellers, and a conversation over a coffee is often more useful than any guidebook.
A peculiarity of this area is the time. Eucla and the surrounding region follow an unofficial time zone, forty-five minutes ahead of the rest of Western Australia, which can lead to confusion if you are used to the clock on your phone. Also be aware that there are quarantine rules on fresh fruit, vegetables and honey at the border, and inspectors will check your luggage. Be honest, and eat your apples before you reach the line.