On the coast of eastern Asturias, near the village of Pimiango, a cave opens in the cliffs above the sea, and inside, Palaeolithic artists painted and engraved animals on the walls: a mammoth, horses, a bison, a fish, and many red dots and signs. El Pindal is one of the caves included in the World Heritage listing of the Cave of Altamira and Paleolithic Cave Art of Northern Spain, and its location, with the sea pounding the rocks below and the Picos de Europa rising inland, is spectacular. Visits are limited and guided, to protect the paintings.
The surrounding area is the Asturian coast at its best, with green meadows running to the edge of cliffs, sandy coves, and the mountains close behind. Nearby Colombres is known for its grand houses built by indianos, emigrants who made their fortunes in the Americas and returned to build mansions in their home villages, often painted in bright colours, and one of them now houses a museum of emigration. San Vicente de la Barquera, just across the border in Cantabria, is a fishing port with a castle and a long bridge.
The riding here is wonderful. The coastal roads, along the cliffs and through villages, offer views of the sea and the mountains, and inland, the roads into the Picos de Europa, through the gorge of La Hermida or up to the lakes of Covadonga, are among the best in Spain, with dramatic scenery and winding roads. The weather is often damp and changeable, and the green landscape is the result of frequent rain. Summer is the best season, though it is also the busiest.
Llanes and San Vicente de la Barquera both have fuel, shops and restaurants, and the seafood is superb. Asturian cider, poured from a height into a wide glass to aerate it, is a local ritual, and the sidrerías are lively places to eat. Try fabada, a rich bean stew with sausages, and the local cheeses, especially Cabrales, a strong blue cheese ripened in caves in the Picos. Visits to the cave are limited and must be booked in advance, and the clifftop path near the entrance offers lovely views over the sea.