Egilsstaðir is the capital of east Iceland in the way a village can be a capital: it has a population of about two thousand, an airport, a supermarket, a swimming pool and a good reputation. It sits on the flat shore of Lagarfljót, a long glacial lake that stretches south-west for about twenty-five kilometres and is said to be home to a monster. The Lagarfljót worm has been reported since the Middle Ages, and a few years back a farmer even filmed something floating in the water, which the locals prefer to leave unexplained. The lake is murky grey-green with glacier silt, so a monster would have no trouble hiding.
You arrive here after a long and varied stretch of the Ring Road. From Jökulsárlón in the south-east, the route follows the coast through the East Fjords, past Höfn and Djúpivogur, through narrow tunnels, along cliffs and under steep, scree-covered mountains, before turning inland over mountain roads. The riding is remarkable: long straights beside the sea, winding climbs over passes, gravel-edged bends and distances that feel bigger than the numbers. The wind is the main danger, with gusts strong enough to move a loaded bike, and weather can change within an hour. Check forecasts and road conditions before setting off, and treat the warning signs seriously.
Egilsstaðir has everything a rider needs: fuel stations, supermarkets, cafés, a campsite, hotels and guesthouses, and it is the best place for supplies for miles in any direction. Fuel stations in smaller villages are limited, and some pumps are unmanned card-only machines, so carry a card with a pin. Nearby, the forest of Hallormsstaður is the largest in Iceland, a plantation and native birch woodland where you can walk among trees taller than a house, which for Iceland is a minor miracle.
From town you can ride over the steep pass of Fjarðarheiði to Seyðisfjörður, a colourful fjord village that looks like a postcard, with a ferry connection to Denmark. The road climbs to over 600 metres through switchbacks that can be foggy and snowy, and it is a rewarding ride on a clear day. The Vök Baths, floating hot pools on a nearby lake, give a good soak after a day's riding.
Food is simple: lamb soup, fresh fish, skyr and strong coffee. Summer is the main season, and in winter conditions can be severe.