Robert Graves, the English poet and author of I, Claudius, lived in Deià for much of his life, and he is buried in the little cemetery on the hill beside the church. That is the quickest way to understand the village: it has been a refuge for writers and painters since the early twentieth century, drawn by the light, the cheap rent of the time, and the stone houses stacked up a conical hill. Today the rent is no longer cheap, but the stack of golden houses against the dark backdrop of the Tramuntana is still lovely.
Riding in from Valldemossa along the Ma-10 gives you one of the best sections of road on the island. The surface is generally good, the bends come in long linked sequences, and the sea appears and disappears through the pines and olive terraces. It is not a road for hurrying: tour buses, rental cars, and cyclists all share it, and the stone parapets leave little room for error. If you want a clear run, aim for early morning or after the day trippers have gone. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds, and in winter, snow can dust the highest peaks while the coast stays mild.
The village sits between the peaks of the Teix and the sea, and a steep, winding road leads down to Cala Deià, a small rocky cove with a couple of seasonal beach restaurants. The road is narrow and parking tiny, so many riders skip it, though it makes a lovely detour if you have time. Up in the village, the church of Sant Joan Baptista and its cemetery have views over the terraces and the water. Walk up in the evening when the light is softest.
Deià has a handful of cafés and restaurants, some expensive, others quite ordinary and welcoming. Fuel is not available in the village itself, so plan your tank. Sóller, about six kilometres away through the tunnel or over the old pass road, is the nearest large town and has fuel, shops, and the famous old tram that runs to the harbour. The tunnel is tolled, so carry a little cash or a card.