It does not look like a place for a story, but it has a few. The name means something like peaceful and safe, and was given in the tenth century after a Buddhist temple, Anyangsa, that once stood here. Today the city has a long stream, the Anyangcheon, with a green path along its banks, and, on the hillside near Mount Samseong, the Anyang Art Park, where sculptures and installations by artists from around the world are scattered through the woods.
The label is for a trip to the Danyang River and its mountain passes, far in the south-east, and the city is a handy starting point for it. Danyang, in North Chungcheong, is where the Namhan River curves between steep limestone cliffs and the high ridges of Sobaeksan, and the roads between are among the nicest in central Korea. Passes such as Jungnyeong take you up through forest in long, clear bends, with tunnels and bridges that give wide views over the valleys, and the traffic is usually light on weekdays.
The first stage of the ride is the escape from the capital, a stretch of expressway that can be crowded at weekends. Leaving at dawn pays off. Once beyond the satellite cities, the land opens, and the roads wind through farmland and forested hills, with small towns and apple orchards. In autumn the maples colour the slopes, and the air is clear. Winter can bring ice and snow to the high passes, so check conditions before going.
Anyang is a place with stations on every road, and shops and convenience stores that sell hot drinks and snacks all night. The expressway rest areas serve noodles, rice dishes and good coffee. Korea drives on the right, and cameras are everywhere, with limits clearly marked, so keep your speed in check. If you have a spare half hour before you leave, walk along the stream or visit the art park, and you will start the day with a quieter mind.