Coal needs a harbour, and for the Ombilin mines the harbour was at Padang, on Sumatra's west coast, about five kilometres from the site. The Dutch built a deep-water port in the bay south of the town, naming it Emmahaven after the queen consort, and the railway from Sawahlunto ended here at the quay and the storage yards. Today the port is known as Teluk Bayur, and some of the old coal-handling structures can still be seen.
Piles of coal were stocked in sheds and yards before loading onto ships bound for bunkers around the Indian Ocean, and the infrastructure of the quay, railway sidings and warehouses is part of the heritage listing. The location tells a larger story: Sumatra's interior wealth went to the coast by rail, and from there to the wider empire's engines. Standing in the yard, with cranes and container stacks beyond, you get a sense of how long this shore has been in the business of moving heavy cargo.
Padang is a lively, hot, humid city of around eight hundred thousand people, and the sea breeze is welcome after the highlands. The ride to the coast from Padang Panjang descends the Anai valley, a good road with plenty of bends, trucks and the roar of water over rocks. Early morning keeps the traffic down. Afternoon downpours are the rule, so keep your rain gear handy. The coast road has fewer curves but more traffic and some potholes.
Fuel is no problem in Padang, with stations on every main road, and restaurants offer the full Minangkabau menu. Try a plate of nasi padang with spicy fish and green chilli sambal. The city also sits in an active earthquake zone, and the memory of the 2009 quake is part of local life, so ask locally about road conditions before any long trip. Solok, a long way inland, is the next large fuel stop after the highlands.