The Church of Christ the Saviour, Soter in Greek, is one of the smaller Byzantine churches in Thessaloniki, built in the early fourteenth century in the same flowering of art that gave the city its Holy Apostles and Saint Nicholas Orphanos. It stands in the upper part of the old town, a compact building with a central dome and a perimeter walkway on three sides, covered with brick patterns that catch the light. Inside there are fragments of mosaics and frescoes, with delicate faces and soft colours that show the refinement of the Palaiologan court. Many of the paintings were lost when the building was used as a mosque and then as a storeroom.
The building has been altered over the centuries, with a new roof and a restored dome, and the surrounding houses press against it so tightly that you almost miss it. This is the quality that makes the old town of Thessaloniki so appealing: monuments not set apart in parks, but folded into daily life, with washing lines and flowerpots at their feet. The church takes on a different feeling in the evening, when the bells ring and old women gather at the door for the service.
The streets around are steep, narrow and one-way, with surface patches that change from asphalt to paving without warning. A motorbike is a good choice, but be patient with the maze of lanes and do not rely on GPS, which can be misled by the high walls. In winter rain makes the road slick, and in summer the heat can be intense. If you can, walk the last part, as the lanes are shaded by walnut trees and fig trees and the neighbours may say hello.
Fuel and cafes are down the hill in the busier districts of Ágios Pávlos and Sykiés, with all the usual services. If you are hungry, look for a baker selling spinach pie or a vendor with warm sesame rings, and settle on a bench with a view of the gulf. Greek hospitality shows itself in small gestures, a glass of water brought unasked, a sweet offered to a stranger. Spring is the best season, with the scent of orange blossom, and you can then ride down to the harbour for a walk along the promenade at dusk.