Cheongpyeong lake is a long, narrow reservoir created in the early 1940s when a dam was built across the Bukhan river, and its waters now fill several arms of the valley, with the road following the shore. The dam was built to produce electricity for the growing city of Seoul, and it remains a source of power and drinking water. The shoreline, with its steep wooded slopes and small coves, is far more attractive than the story of its origin would suggest.
Riverside restaurants are the main attraction for a food stop. Along the water, family-run places serve maeuntang, a spicy freshwater fish stew with vegetables and chilli, and grilled river fish with rice and side dishes, brought to the table in a series of small plates that seem to multiply as the meal goes on. Pajeon, a savoury pancake with spring onions, comes with the local rice wine, though riders must say no to the latter. Lunch is generally served between eleven and three, and many places close in the afternoon.
The area is also a place of weekend retreat for the people of Seoul, who come to walk, fish and enjoy the clean air. Pensions and campsites are scattered along the shore, and there are paths for hiking in the hills above. The lake is calm in the morning, and mist often hangs on the surface, with fishermen in small boats waiting for the day to warm. In autumn, the reflection of the red maples on the water draws photographers.
Gapyeong, thirteen kilometres away, and Hwado, a little farther, have more than fifty thousand and a hundred thousand people respectively, and both have fuel stations, supermarkets and rooms. Small shops near the lake may sell snacks and drinks, but fuel is not reliable, so fill up beforehand. The road is winding and well maintained, though traffic can be heavy on summer and autumn weekends. Be careful on the sharp bends and in tunnels, where the light changes suddenly. Motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways, so this lakeside road is the usual route, and a good one. In winter, ice and snow can close or slow sections, and the air is cold and dry.