Cedar Island is the end of the road, in a way that is surprisingly pleasant. It is a quiet, flat, marshy tongue of land on the far eastern edge of the North Carolina mainland, at the end of a long road through pine woods and salt marsh, and it faces the Pamlico Sound. Here the highway meets the ferry terminal, where boats leave for Ocracoke island, and the whole place feels like a pause between two worlds.
This part of the coast is known as Down East, and its communities have fished, crabbed and built boats for centuries. Many of the families are descended from the early settlers, and you may hear an old accent here, sometimes called the Outer Banks brogue, that retains a few echoes of older English. Wood duck decoys and boat building are traditional crafts, and the little villages along the road have a plain, weathered look. Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge protects marsh and woodland, and in winter the sky fills with ducks and geese.
The ride in is long, flat and pretty, passing through tiny settlements, across salt marsh and over small bridges, with Core Sound on one side. There is not a lot of traffic, but the wind can be strong, and in summer the marsh breeds clouds of biting insects, so keep the visor down. Heavy rain and storm surge occasionally flood low parts of the road. The ferry to Ocracoke takes a couple of hours, and in summer it is wise to reserve a place, since motorcycles are normally accommodated but the boats fill up.
Services here are minimal, so arrive with a full tank, since stations are scarce. The larger towns of Beaufort and Morehead City, along the coast to the west, have all the fuel, food and lodging you could need. If you plan to take the ferry, check the schedule and the weather, because crossings can be cancelled in high winds and storms. Bring water, some snacks and a good book, because you may have a wait. The sunsets over the marsh, with the light turning gold and then pink across the water, are often spectacular, and the birdlife is rich throughout the year.