Mainhardt sits high in the Swabian-Franconian Forest, between Heilbronn and Schwäbisch Hall, on a wooded plateau that the Romans chose for one of the forts guarding their frontier. The Upper Germanic-Raetian Limes runs through here on its long, ruler-straight stretch heading south towards Welzheim, and along it stood watchtowers every few hundred metres, with small buildings nearby for the soldiers who manned them. The remains south of one of these towers are modest, low foundations in a clearing or under the forest floor, but they are part of the World Heritage frontier that runs for more than five hundred kilometres across Germany. The village has a small Roman museum that explains the fort and its garrison.
The forest is the reason to come. Dense spruce and beech woods cover rolling hills cut by deep valleys, with clear streams, mills and scattered farms. It is cool and green in summer, often misty in autumn, and snowy in winter. The area is popular with hikers, and the Limes path follows the line of the old frontier through the trees.
Schwäbisch Hall, about a quarter of an hour east, is one of the most beautiful towns in southern Germany, with half-timbered houses climbing the slopes above the river Kocher and a grand flight of steps in front of St Michael's church. It grew rich on salt, and the Heller, a small silver coin minted there, gave its name to small change across the German-speaking world. The surrounding Hohenlohe region is famous for its food, including a heritage breed of pig with a black head and tail.
The riding around Mainhardt is excellent. The main road between Heilbronn and Schwäbisch Hall climbs over the plateau with long bends, and the minor roads through the forest offer endless curves, climbs and descents with little traffic. Watch for forestry vehicles, wildlife at dawn and dusk, and patches of mud or wet leaves on shaded corners. Speed limits and police checks are common on popular routes, especially on weekends.
Mainhardt has over five thousand residents, so fuel, a bakery and inns are close at hand. Try a plate of Maultaschen, the Swabian pasta parcels, or a slice of Black Forest cake, and stretch out on a bench at the edge of the forest before heading on.