Budir is barely a place at all, a handful of buildings on the south coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, but it has one of the most photographed churches in Iceland. The little black wooden church, Budakirkja, stands alone on the edge of a lava field with the glacier far behind, and its tarred walls and white-framed windows look dramatic against the green moss and grey sky. The present building dates from the nineteenth century and was restored in the 1980s, and it has served the surrounding farms for generations.
The lava field itself, Budahraun, is a rough, moss-covered flow with twisted rock formations, hidden crevices and a thick carpet of lichen that glows green after rain. A path leads from the church toward the sea, where a pale beach and a small crater, Budaklettur, rise above the coast. In clear weather you can see the Snaefellsjokull glacier to the west and the mountains across the bay to the south. Birdlife is plentiful, with arctic terns, eider ducks and waders nesting on the shore in summer, so tread carefully in nesting season.
The road here, Route 54, follows the peninsula's southern shore, with generous curves, good tarmac and spectacular views of mountains and sea. The traffic is light apart from tour buses, and the wind is the main hazard. In rain or fog the visibility drops and the road can feel exposed, so keep your speed measured. In summer evenings, the light on the lava field is extraordinary, and photographers often wait for the right moment.
There is a hotel nearby that has been a stopping place for travellers for many years, and an old legend says that the area was the home of Bardur Snaefellsas, a half-troll, half-human figure who is said to watch over the peninsula. The nearest village of any size is Olafsvik, about seventeen kilometres to the west, so plan your fuel accordingly.
Stop for a while, walk down to the beach and listen to the surf and the birds. It is a place where the main thing to do is simply look.