Budardalur is a very small settlement at the head of Hvammsfjordur in western Iceland, and it serves as the centre of the Dalir district, whose name simply means the Valleys. Only a couple of hundred people live here, but it is an important stop on the road, because the nearest fuel for a long distance is found here, along with a shop, a cafe and a few services. A small dairy is based in the town, and local cheese and skyr are a good thing to try.
The area has real historical weight. The sagas of the Icelanders are rooted here, and the Laxdaela saga, one of the greatest, is set in the surrounding valleys, with its story of Gudrun Osvifsdottir and her tangled loves. Further inland, at Eiriksstadir, stands a reconstruction of the farm of Erik the Red, the Norse outlaw who founded the first settlement in Greenland, and where, according to tradition, his son Leif Eriksson was born. The turf-roofed hall gives an idea of what a Viking-age longhouse looked like.
The riding in this part of Iceland is open and relaxed. Route 60 runs through broad valleys and over low passes, with a good surface, moderate traffic and a mixture of long straights and gentle bends. Beyond town, the road toward the Westfjords climbs over the pass of Brattabrekka, where the views over the valleys are wide and the weather can change very quickly. The gravel sections that appear on some parts of the route need extra care, particularly on a heavy bike.
The fjord is shallow and edged with mudflats, which attract plenty of birds, and in summer the green meadows are speckled with sheep and horses. The air smells of grass and salt, and the light across the water is soft and wide.
Fill the tank here before heading into the Westfjords, where fuel stations are much more widely spaced. Take a break, stretch and enjoy the quiet.