Bormio lies in a high valley of Lombardy, a town of narrow lanes, stone arches and church bells at around 1,200 metres, with mountains rising steeply on every side. It has been a spa since Roman times, and the warm springs that bubble up from deep in the rock still feed thermal baths where you can soak after a long day. In winter it is a ski resort with a long tradition, and the famously steep Stelvio downhill run, used for World Cup races, starts above the town.
The history of the place runs deep. Bormio sat on a trade route linking northern Italy with the Alpine passes and Switzerland, and Venetian and Milanese merchants passed through. The Valtellina, the valley below, is known for its wines, made from the nebbiolo grape grown on steep terraces, and for bresaola, the air-dried beef. Local dishes in Bormio include pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta cooked with cabbage, potatoes and melted cheese, and the town's winter carnival and old stone fountains give it character.
The Stelvio Pass is the reason many riders come. At about 2,758 metres it is the second highest paved pass in the Alps, and the road from Bormio climbs through galleries and tunnels, then flings itself up in dozens of hairpins to a crest of snow, cafes and souvenir stalls. The Bormio side is generally smoother and wider than the famous series of hairpins on the Prato allo Stelvio side. Traffic is heavy in summer, especially at weekends, so go early. The pass is typically closed from late autumn to late spring, and the weather can turn cold and foggy even in July.
Bormio has fuel stations, supermarkets and lodging at all levels, and San Nicolò, a short ride down the road, also has services. Fill the tank before the climb, since the top has none. Dress in layers, because the temperature drops sharply with altitude, and enjoy a cup of hot chocolate at the summit.