In the north of Transylvania, the Someș river winds through a valley of green hills, woods and villages with wooden churches and haystacks, and on a hilltop near the village of Bârsău Mare, the faint remains of a Roman fortification overlook the valley. This was part of the northern frontier of Roman Dacia, the province created after Trajan's conquest in the early second century, and it is one of the sites included in the Frontiers of the Roman Empire, Dacia, listed by UNESCO in 2024.
The northern frontier of Dacia ran along the hills and valleys of this region, guarding the province against the free Dacians and other peoples beyond. Fortlets and watchtowers like the one at Bârsău Mare were linked to larger forts, such as Porolissum, near Zalău, one of the largest Roman sites in Romania. The Romans withdrew from Dacia in the 270s, but the region kept its Latin-based language, and the debate about the continuity of Romanians in Transylvania remains a lively topic. The landscape here is rural and traditional, with horse-drawn carts, orchards and meadows full of flowers in spring.
The roads in this part of Romania vary greatly. Main routes are generally paved and in reasonable condition, while smaller roads can be potholed or unpaved, especially in villages. Traffic is light, but watch for horse carts, livestock and pedestrians, especially at dusk. The valley of the Someș offers pleasant riding, with gentle curves and views, while the hills to the north and west, towards Maramureș, have more challenging and scenic routes, through forests and over passes.
Fuel is available in Dej, a town of almost forty thousand, and in larger villages, while small villages may have no services. Dej is known for its salt mine, now open to visitors. Romanian cuisine is hearty: try sarmale, cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice, served with polenta and sour cream, or ciorbă, a sour soup with vegetables and meat. Village shops and restaurants are simple but welcoming, and locals are often curious about travellers.