Athabasca Falls is not tall, about twenty-three metres, but it is one of the most powerful waterfalls in the Rockies, because the whole of the Athabasca River goes through it. Where the river meets a band of hard quartzite it funnels into a narrow slot, and the water thunders down in a white mass, spraying mist that you feel on your face from the railings. Over the millennia the water has carved potholes and smooth channels into the rock, and the canyon below is a sculpture of curves and hollows. Walking paths and bridges allow close views, and the colours of the water, from grey-blue to white, are striking.
The river itself has a story. Its name comes from a Cree word for a place where reeds are scattered, and it was one of the main routes of the fur trade, linking the Pacific watershed to the interior of the continent. In the early nineteenth century traders climbed the valley to Athabasca Pass, a few days' travel to the west, which was used as a route over the Rockies, with a hard crossing in winter. A little way to the north, Jasper House once stood on the river as a fur-trading post, and the town of Jasper inherited its name.
For the rider, the falls lie about thirty kilometres south of Jasper on the Icefields Parkway, at the junction with Highway 93A, an older, quieter loop of road that runs closer to the river and peaks and is worth taking as an alternative, with sections of narrow bends and views of Mount Edith Cavell. The main road is wide and smooth, with sweeping views of Mount Kerkeslin and the Whirlpool valley. Traffic is heavy in summer, with coaches and campers, and wildlife is common, including elk, which sometimes stand on the verge in the evening, and bears. Mind the lower speed limits.
Jasper itself, twenty-seven kilometres north, is the nearest town, with fuel stations, supermarkets, cafes and motels. In July 2024, a wildfire destroyed many buildings in the town, and rebuilding has been under way, so check current conditions. The best light on the falls is in the morning, when the sun picks out the rainbows in the spray. Spring melt makes the falls loud and muddy, while autumn is clear and quiet. Parks Canada requires a pass for the parkway, and the stop is a short, easy walk from the car park.