Arnarstapi is a tiny fishing village on the south side of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, and the best thing about it is the coast. Basalt cliffs rise from the sea in stacks, arches and hexagonal columns, and thousands of kittiwakes and fulmars nest on the ledges, wheeling and shrieking above the surf. A footpath runs along the top between Arnarstapi and the neighbouring settlement of Hellnar, about two and a half kilometres long, and it is one of the best short walks in west Iceland.
The cliffs are the work of old lava flows and fierce Atlantic storms, and the most famous feature is Gatklettur, a rock arch that the waves have cut right through. Near the harbour you will see a large stone statue of Bardur Snaefellsas, a legendary figure with a troll's strength and a human heart, who was said to have settled the peninsula and who still protects it. The small harbour has a few fishing boats, and in summer there are a couple of places for coffee and soup.
Riding here is wonderful when the weather behaves. Route 574 loops around the western tip of the peninsula, mostly on tarmac, passing lava fields, beaches and old fishing stations. Some stretches are gravel, particularly near the more remote beaches, so be prepared for loose surface and potholes. The wind is relentless, and showers sweep in off the sea in minutes, so pack a waterproof layer and keep your speed in check on the exposed bends.
Everything here sits within the Snaefellsjokull National Park, and the glacier can often be seen towering over the village on a clear day. Arctic terns defend their nests aggressively along the path in early summer, and they will dive at your helmet if you stray too close, so stay on the marked route. Seals are sometimes seen in the bay.
Fuel is not available in the village. The nearest larger settlements are Olafsvik and Hellissandur to the north, and they are the sensible places to fill up before you set off around the peninsula. Arnarstapi is a place to stand on the cliff edge, feel the spray and watch the birds, not to rush through.