The hills south of Jerusalem and Bethlehem are older than most of the countries now claiming them, and the terraced slopes around Battir are among the best evidence. For centuries, perhaps for two thousand years, farmers here have built dry-stone terraces down the steep valley sides to grow olives, grapes, figs and vegetables, and the water that feeds them comes from springs and is shared out through channels according to a rota among local families. The system was recognised as a World Heritage landscape in 2014, under the title of the land of olives and vines in southern Jerusalem.
The village of Battir is known for its small, flavourful aubergines, which locals call the Battiri variety, and for the old railway line that runs through the bottom of the valley. That line was built by the Ottomans in the 1890s to link Jaffa with Jerusalem, and after 1948 it became part of the armistice line, which is part of why the valley stayed undeveloped. Today you can walk along the valley floor and look up at terraces that have not changed much in many generations.
It is worth being plain about the riding. The roads in this area are narrow, steep and twisting, with tight bends and blind crests, patchy tarmac and a lot of local traffic, and the region is politically sensitive, with checkpoints, barriers and changing access conditions that no map keeps up with. Check the current situation locally before you set out, ride with respect and in daylight, and keep your documents with you. In spring the slopes are green and wildflowers are everywhere; in summer the hills are bleached and hot, and in autumn the olive harvest brings families out onto the terraces.
For fuel and food, Husan, a couple of kilometres away, and the nearby town of Bethlehem are the practical choices, and there are small cafes in the villages where a coffee and something sweet will not cost much. Bring water, because the terraces offer little shade, and wear shoes you can walk in, since the best part of this place is on foot.