Flat. That is the first impression of this part of southern Romania, in Argeș county, where the land stretches away towards the Danube in wide fields of maize and sunflowers, broken only by lines of trees and small villages. But across this plain, in the second century AD, the Romans built a frontier: the Limes Transalutanus, a line of earthworks and forts running north to south east of the Olt river, protecting the province of Dacia. At Urluieni, near the village of Afrimești, stood one of its forts.
The Limes Transalutanus was an earthen rampart with a ditch, about 235 kilometres long, with forts at intervals. The fort at Urluieni had stone walls, and excavations have found buildings, baths and finds that tell of the soldiers who lived here. Today there is little to see above ground; the site is a field with faint traces of the walls. But standing here, it is fascinating to think of the Roman frontier crossing this empty plain, so far from Rome.
The riding in this part of Romania is straightforward: long straight roads across the plain, with few bends and wide views. Traffic is light, but surfaces vary and potholes are common on minor roads. Horse carts and agricultural vehicles share the roads, and villages often have dogs that chase motorcycles. Summer is hot and dry, often above thirty-five degrees, so start early and carry water. In late summer, the sunflower fields are in bloom, turning the landscape yellow. Winters are cold, with wind sweeping across the plain.
Corbu and Hârsești are small villages with basic services, and Bârla, seven kilometres away, is a larger village with fuel. Pitești, the county capital, is further north and has all services. Romanian village food is simple and hearty: soups, grilled meat and mămăligă. If you are interested in the Roman frontier, combine this visit with others along the Limes, or ride north to the Olt valley and the mountains, where the landscape changes completely and the riding gets far more interesting.