Xurahue Muyaca and Stretch of the Camino Real between Ojocali
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
305 km
Riding-time estimate
5 h 25
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
The recorded total and the leg detail need reconciliation. Inspect the leg notes before using this record for timing or navigation. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
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Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
305 km from Susticacán to Susticacán, about 5 h 25 of riding. It goes by way of Cupuri Mutiu, Cacai Mutijé, Macuipa and Stretch of the Camino Real between Ojocali. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 2,350 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. A steady touring day rather than a sprint.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Xurahue Muyaca
In the high dry country of southern Zacatecas, the land is cut by canyons and spiny with mesquite, nopal cactus and agave, and the names of its places are a trail of Indigenous words. They sit in the region between the villages of Susticacán and Tepetongo, in the zone south-west of Zacatecas city where the highlands begin to drop towards the Juchipila valley, and the world around them is that of the Caxcan and Zacateco peoples who held the area before the Spanish arrived.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Xurahue Muyaca is where the day begins. Next is Cupuri Mutiu.
2. Cupuri Mutiu
Jerez de García Salinas is the reason most riders end up here, and it is a happy accident if they do. This colonial town in the west of Zacatecas state, a couple of kilometres from the point, is a Pueblo Mágico with a leafy plaza, an ornate little theatre, the Teatro Hinojosa, said to be modelled on Ford's Theatre in Washington, and the childhood home of Ramón López Velarde, the poet whose verses about provincial Mexico every schoolchild there knows. Jerez is a ranchero town at heart, with saddle makers, boot shops and men in hats, and the Easter fair with its horses and music draws people from across the region.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Cupuri Mutiu comes up 33 km in. Next is Cacai Mutijé.
3. Cacai Mutijé
Out here on the high plateau west of Zacatecas the land is all wide sky, nopal, mesquite and red-brown earth, and it takes a while to understand that you are standing on a pilgrimage path. Cacai Mutijé is one of the sacred places of the Wixárika, the people outsiders long called Huichol, on the route their pilgrims follow from their home communities in the Sierra Madre Occidental across Zacatecas to Wirikuta, the desert of San Luis Potosí where they gather hikuri, the peyote cactus, and where in their cosmology the sun was born. The path has been walked for centuries and was recognised by UNESCO only recently, which tells you something about how long the rest of the world took to notice.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
65 km in you reach Cacai Mutijé. Next is Macuipa.
4. Macuipa
Macuipa lies on the edge of Zacatecas, the silver capital of northern Mexico, and the name points to the sacred geography of the Wixárika, the Huichol people, whose pilgrimage route passes through this region on its way from their homeland in the Sierra Madre Occidental to Wirikuta, the sacred desert in San Luis Potosí. For centuries, Wixárika pilgrims have walked this route, hundreds of kilometres long, visiting springs, hills and rocks where their deities dwell, leaving offerings and performing ceremonies. The route has recently been recognised by UNESCO. Exactly what is to be seen at Macuipa is not easy to say from a distance; treat it as a place where two very different worlds, the Spanish silver city and the indigenous sacred landscape, meet.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Macuipa, about halfway. Next is Stretch of the Camino Real between Ojocali.
5. Stretch of the Camino Real between Ojocali
The Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the Royal Road of the Interior, ran for more than two and a half thousand kilometres from Mexico City to Santa Fe in what is now New Mexico, and carried silver, mercury, supplies and missionaries for nearly three hundred years. UNESCO inscribed a series of its sections and sites in 2010, and the stretch near Ojocaliente, in the state of Zacatecas, passes through high, dry country at around two thousand metres, with the town of Trancoso eight kilometres away and the city of Zacatecas to the west.