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CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE

Villa dei Misteri and Marechiaro

Plan this ride

Recorded distance
145 km
Riding-time estimate
3 h 10
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis

Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.

Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.

Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.

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Why this ride

145 km from Pompei to Pompei, about 3 h 10 of riding. On the way it passes Herculaneum, District of Casale and Santo Strato, Villa dei Papiri and Marechiaro.

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

  1. 1. Villa dei Misteri

    Outside the walls of Pompeii, a few hundred metres from the Herculaneum Gate, stands a villa that holds one of the strangest paintings in the Roman world. The Villa of the Mysteries was a large country house and wine estate, and in one of its rooms a continuous frieze, nearly life-sized, runs around all four walls against a vivid red background, the famous Pompeian red. The figures include women, a young initiate, a satyr, a winged figure with a whip and the god Dionysus himself, and they seem to show a ritual of initiation into his cult, though nobody has ever been sure of the exact meaning. The paintings date from about the middle of the first century BC, some decades before the eruption.

    Read the complete Villa dei Misteri write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Villa dei Misteri is where the day begins. Next is Herculaneum.

  2. 2. Herculaneum

    On the morning of 24 August in AD 79, as the story is usually told, Vesuvius blew its top, and Herculaneum, a small seaside town on the Bay of Naples, was buried under around twenty metres of volcanic material. Pompeii gets the headlines because it was buried in ash and pumice, but Herculaneum was overwhelmed by superheated surges of gas and ash, and that violence did something kinder to the evidence: it carbonised wood. Roof beams, doors, beds, shop shutters and even food were preserved in a way that Pompeii cannot match, and the town feels smaller, closer and more intact.

    Read the complete Herculaneum write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Herculaneum comes up about 17 km into the recorded legs. Next is District of Casale and Santo Strato.

  3. 3. District of Casale and Santo Strato

    Posillipo takes its name from a Greek phrase meaning a pause from pain, and the Romans, who knew a good view when they saw one, covered the ridge with villas. It is the green promontory that divides the Bay of Naples from the Gulf of Pozzuoli, a hill of soft yellow tuff thrown up by the volcanoes of the Phlegraean Fields, and its western slope falls into the sea in cliffs and small coves. The Casale and Santo Strato district sits on the sea side of the hill, where terraced gardens, old walls and tiny ports survived the building boom that swallowed so much of Naples.

    Read the complete District of Casale and Santo Strato write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    about 35 km into the recorded legs you reach District of Casale and Santo Strato. Next is Villa dei Papiri.

  4. 4. Villa dei Papiri

    The Villa of the Papyri is mostly still buried. It was a huge seaside villa at Herculaneum, on the slope below Vesuvius, and when the eruption of 79 AD sent a mud and ash flow down on the town, the villa was covered by twenty metres of hard volcanic rock. In the 1750s, the Bourbon engineers who were digging in the area tunnelled down and found marble statues, bronzes of rare quality and a library of around 1,800 papyrus scrolls, charred into black lumps by the heat. The scrolls, many of them works by the Epicurean philosopher Philodemus, have been read in recent years using X-ray imaging and artificial intelligence. The villa may have belonged to Julius Caesar's father-in-law, Piso, though this is a guess. The villa in Malibu that houses the Getty Museum is a copy of it.

    Read the complete Villa dei Papiri write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Villa dei Papiri, about halfway. Next is Marechiaro.

  5. 5. Marechiaro

    There is a song about Marechiaro, and for once the song is not exaggerating. The little fishing hamlet on the Posillipo headland, at the western edge of the Bay of Naples, inspired a poem by Salvatore Di Giacomo in the 1880s about a window and a flower, and Francesco Paolo Tosti set it to music, so that "Marechiare" has been sung in Neapolitan kitchens and concert halls ever since. Locals will point out the so-called Fenestella, a small window on a wall above the sea, as the very one. Whether the poet had it in mind or not is a matter for a pleasant argument over a plate of fried fish.

    Read the complete Marechiaro write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Marechiaro sits at 70 km, about halfway. Next is back through Villa dei Papiri.

  6. 6. back through Villa dei Papiri

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Villa dei Papiri write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    back through Villa dei Papiri comes up about 89 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through District of Casale and Santo Strato.

  7. 7. back through District of Casale and Santo Strato

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete District of Casale and Santo Strato write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    about 107 km into the recorded legs you reach back through District of Casale and Santo Strato. Next is back through Herculaneum.

  8. 8. back through Herculaneum

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Herculaneum write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    back through Herculaneum, late in the day. Next is Villa dei Misteri.

  9. 9. Villa dei Misteri

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Villa dei Misteri write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    The route ends here after 145 km.

Leg by leg

Villa dei Misteri to Herculaneum

Villa dei Misteri → Herculaneum is 17 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Herculaneum to District of Casale and Santo Strato

Herculaneum → District of Casale and Santo Strato is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

District of Casale and Santo Strato to Villa dei Papiri

District of Casale and Santo Strato → Villa dei Papiri is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Villa dei Papiri to Marechiaro

Villa dei Papiri → Marechiaro is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Marechiaro to back through Villa dei Papiri

Marechiaro → back through Villa dei Papiri is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Villa dei Papiri to back through District of Casale and Santo Strato

back through Villa dei Papiri → back through District of Casale and Santo Strato is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through District of Casale and Santo Strato to back through Herculaneum

back through District of Casale and Santo Strato → back through Herculaneum is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Herculaneum to Villa dei Misteri

back through Herculaneum → Villa dei Misteri is 17 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

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