Shitsu Village in Sotome and Glover House and Office
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
159 km
Riding-time estimate
3 h 39
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
A 159 km round trip from Togitsu - roughly 3 h 39 in the saddle. The stops in between: Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte, Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine, Glover House and Office and back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Shitsu Village in Sotome
Sotome is a stretch of rugged coast north of Nagasaki, where steep hills drop into the East China Sea, and the village of Shitsu clings to its slopes. During the centuries when Christianity was banned in Japan, the farmers and fishermen of this remote area kept their faith in secret, passing down prayers and rituals from generation to generation, hiding their devotion behind Buddhist and Shinto practices. When the ban was lifted in 1873, many of them returned to the Catholic Church. The Shitsu church, built in 1882 under the direction of the French missionary Marc Marie de Rotz, stands on a hill above the sea, a simple white building with a low profile designed to resist the strong winds. De Rotz was more than a priest: he taught the villagers to make bread, pasta and textiles, built a clinic and a workshop, and his legacy is still honoured locally. The village and church are part of the UNESCO listing of the Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Shitsu Village in Sotome is where the day begins. Next is Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte.
2. Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte
Nagasaki's harbour is a long, narrow inlet surrounded by steep hills, and on its western shore the Mitsubishi shipyard has been building ships since the late nineteenth century. The yard was one of the engines of Japan's rapid industrialisation in the Meiji era, when the country transformed itself from a feudal society into an industrial power in a few decades. Several of its historic structures are part of the UNESCO listing of the Sites of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution, inscribed in 2015. The Former Pattern Shop, a red-brick building from 1898 where wooden patterns were made for casting metal parts, now houses a museum of the yard's history. The Giant Cantilever Crane, installed in 1909 and made in Scotland, is still in working order, and it dominates the waterfront. The yard built many famous ships, including the battleship Musashi, one of the largest warships ever constructed.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte comes up about 29 km into the recorded legs. Next is Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine.
3. Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine
From the sea, Hashima looks like a battleship: a small rocky island off Nagasaki surrounded by high concrete walls, crowded with tall, empty apartment blocks. The Japanese call it Gunkanjima, battleship island, and it is the most famous ruin of Japan's industrial age. Mitsubishi mined coal here from undersea seams from the late nineteenth century, and as the mine grew the island was extended with land reclaimed from the sea and built up with concrete housing, schools, a hospital and shops. At its peak it was one of the most densely populated places on Earth. When the mine closed in 1974, everyone left within weeks, and the island has been slowly crumbling ever since.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 56 km into the recorded legs you reach Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine. Next is Glover House and Office.
4. Glover House and Office
Thomas Blake Glover arrived in Nagasaki in 1859 as a young Scot in his early twenties, and within a decade he had become one of the most influential foreigners in Japan. His house stands on Minamiyamate hill above the harbour, built in the early 1860s, and it is the oldest surviving Western-style building in the country. It has wide verandas, a stone-flagged garden and a view of the bay that must have been a sales tool in itself. Glover traded tea and ships and, more controversially, guns and warships, supplying the domains that overthrew the Tokugawa shogunate. He also helped smuggle young Choshu samurai out of Japan to study in London, and later worked with Mitsubishi on shipbuilding. Some historians say he brought the Industrial Revolution to Japan through the back door.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Shitsu Village in Sotome closes the day.
Leg by leg
Shitsu Village in Sotome to Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte
Shitsu Village in Sotome → Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte is 29 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte to Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine
Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte → Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine is 27 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine to Glover House and Office
Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine → Glover House and Office is 23 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Glover House and Office to back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine
Glover House and Office → back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine is 23 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine to back through Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte
back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine → back through Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte is 27 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte to Shitsu Village in Sotome
back through Nagasaki Shipyard/ Mitsubishi Former Patte → Shitsu Village in Sotome is 30 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.