Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr and Codrul Secular Slătioara
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
423 km
Riding-time estimate
9 h 43
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
From Chernivtsi it runs 423 km to Chernivtsi; allow about 9 h 43 of riding. It goes by way of Churches of Moldavia, Church of St George of the former Voronet, Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster and Codrul Secular Slătioara. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,100 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It crosses from Ukraine into Romania - carry ID and check vignette or toll rules. A steady touring day rather than a sprint.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr
The Residence of the Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metropolitans in Chernivtsi is one of the most extraordinary buildings in Eastern Europe, a red-brick complex of towers, domes and arcades that looks like a cross between a Byzantine monastery, a Moorish palace and a Victorian college. It was designed by the Czech architect Josef Hlávka and built between 1864 and 1882 as the seat of the Orthodox metropolitan of Bukovina and Dalmatia, then provinces of the Austrian Empire. The roofs are covered with coloured glazed tiles in patterns derived from the folk art of the region, the interiors are lavishly decorated, and the complex includes a seminary, a church and gardens. Today it houses the Chernivtsi National University, and it was listed by UNESCO in 2011. Students fill the courtyards, and guided tours show the main halls, including the stunning Marble Hall.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr is where the day begins. Next is Churches of Moldavia.
2. Churches of Moldavia
Sucevița is the last and the largest of the great painted monasteries of Bucovina, and when you come down into its valley and see it for the first time, a squat fortress of white walls and towers with a church inside painted from eaves to plinth in deep greens, reds and blues, it stops you in your tracks. It was built in the 1580s and 1590s by the Movilă family, princes and churchmen of Moldavia, and its frescoes are among the best preserved of all the painted churches. UNESCO groups it with seven others as the churches of Moldavia.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Churches of Moldavia comes up about 85 km into the recorded legs. Next is Church of St George of the former Voronet.
3. Church of St George of the former Voronet
Voroneț is known as the Sistine Chapel of the East, and it earned the name with a colour. The little church of St George, built in 1488 by Stephen the Great, prince of Moldavia, is covered inside and out with frescoes, and the outside, especially, glows with a deep blue that has never been exactly replicated and is now called Voroneț blue. The west wall carries a vast Last Judgment, added in 1547, in which rivers of fire pull the damned toward the pit while saints, angels and a procession of animals look on. Legend says that Stephen built the church in three months, three weeks and three days after a victory over the Ottomans.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 136 km into the recorded legs you reach Church of St George of the former Voronet. Next is Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster.
4. Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster
Moldovița is the monastery that makes people go quiet in the courtyard. It sits in a green pocket of the Bukovina hills, ringed by a stout defensive wall with corner towers, and inside it the Church of the Annunciation is painted from the ground to the eaves with saints, prophets and battle scenes in blues, reds and ochres that have survived some five centuries of Carpathian weather. It was founded in the time of Petru Rareș, in the 1530s, and it belongs to the famous group of painted churches of northern Moldavia that UNESCO lists together.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster, about halfway. Next is Codrul Secular Slătioara.
5. Codrul Secular Slătioara
Slătioara is old-growth forest of the kind that Europe has mostly lost. The reserve, tucked into the slopes of the Rarău and Giumalău ranges above the Moldova valley, protects beech, fir and spruce that have never been seriously logged, and it is part of the Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians that UNESCO recognised. Walk under the canopy and you notice the scale first: trunks as thick as a doorway, fallen giants furred with moss, and a dim green light even at noon.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
back through Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster comes up about 254 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through Church of St George of the former Voronet.
7. back through Church of St George of the former Voronet
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 423 km.
Leg by leg
Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr to Churches of Moldavia
Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr → Churches of Moldavia is 85 km of getting across. Ride it tidily and keep the enthusiasm for what comes after.
Churches of Moldavia to Church of St George of the former Voronet
Churches of Moldavia → Church of St George of the former Voronet is 51 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of St George of the former Voronet to Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster
Church of St George of the former Voronet → Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster to Codrul Secular Slătioara
Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster → Codrul Secular Slătioara is 41 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Codrul Secular Slătioara to back through Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster
Codrul Secular Slătioara → back through Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster is 41 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster to back through Church of St George of the former Voronet
back through Church of the Annunciation of the Monaster → back through Church of St George of the former Voronet is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of St George of the former Voronet to back through Churches of Moldavia
back through Church of St George of the former Voronet → back through Churches of Moldavia is 51 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Churches of Moldavia to Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr
back through Churches of Moldavia → Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metr is 82 km of getting across. Ride it tidily and keep the enthusiasm for what comes after.