Rabati Malik Sardoba and Dabusiya Settlement

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Rabati Malik Sardoba

   Halfway between Samarkand and Bukhara, the old caravan road crosses a stretch of steppe that is flat, dry and almost empty, and in the eleventh century someone decided that a traveller crossing it deserved a proper stopping place. Rabati Malik, the Rabat of the King, was built in the 1070s by a Karakhanid ruler named Shams al-Mulk Nasr, on one of the main branches of the Silk Road. The caravanserai itself is now mostly collapsed, and what remains is a tall brick entrance portal, ornamented with carved terracotta, standing alone in the plain like the front of a theatre set.

   Read the complete Rabati Malik Sardoba write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Rabati Malik Sardoba is where the day begins. Next is Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum.

2. 2. Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum

   Navoi is a strange and rather brilliant city. It does not appear on any old caravan map, because it was founded in 1958 in the middle of the Kyzylkum desert, to house the workers of the gold and uranium industries and to give the Soviet planners a clean slate. It was named after Alisher Navoi, the fifteenth-century poet who wrote in Chagatai Turkic and who has become the national literary hero. Wide avenues, tidy parks and rows of apartment blocks give it the air of a model town, and in the heat of the afternoon it is remarkably quiet.

   Read the complete Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum comes up about 19 km into the recorded legs. Next is Dabusiya Settlement.

3. 3. Dabusiya Settlement

   Halfway along the old road from Samarkand to Bukhara, where the Zeravshan valley widens into irrigated plain, there is a ruined town called Dabusiya. The Sogdians founded it, and it grew into a staging post on the Silk Road, where caravans paused for water, fodder and trade. The Arabs reached it in the early eighth century and the town held out and changed hands as the region went through conquest and conversion. By the Middle Ages it was a modest brick town with a citadel, a mosque and workshops. The Mongols and later shifts in the river sealed its decline.

   Read the complete Dabusiya Settlement write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 60 km into the recorded legs you reach Dabusiya Settlement. Next is back through Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum.

4. 4. back through Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Mir Sayid Bakhrom Mausoleum, late in the day. Next is Rabati Malik Sardoba.

5. 5. Rabati Malik Sardoba

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Rabati Malik Sardoba write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Back at Rabati Malik Sardoba. That is the ride.