Nishiumazuka Kofun and Daigo-ji

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Nishiumazuka Kofun

   The name Nishiumazuka means west horse mound, and horses do figure in the story of the Furuichi tombs. Excavations around the giant tomb of Emperor Ojin turned up harness fittings and even buried horses in nearby tombs, and historians read this as a sign of the new cavalry culture arriving in Japan from the Korean peninsula in the fifth century. Horses meant armies, and armies meant a different kind of kingship, which is the story these mounds tell if you read them closely.

   Read the complete Nishiumazuka Kofun write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Nishiumazuka Kofun is where the day begins. Next is Kôfuku-ji.

2. 2. Kôfuku-ji

   In the early eighth century, when Nara became Japan's first permanent capital, the powerful Fujiwara clan moved their family temple here, and Kofuku-ji became one of the great temples of the city, wealthy enough to maintain its own warrior monks. Its five storey pagoda, rebuilt in the fifteenth century after one of several fires, is the second tallest wooden pagoda in Japan and a symbol of Nara, reflected in the Sarusawa pond below. The Central Golden Hall was rebuilt and reopened in 2018, and the National Treasure Museum holds the famous statue of Ashura, a three faced, six armed guardian with a strikingly human expression. Kofuku-ji is part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara World Heritage Site. The pagoda is undergoing a long restoration and may be wrapped in scaffolding when you visit.

   Read the complete Kôfuku-ji write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Kôfuku-ji comes up about 32 km into the recorded legs. Next is Daigo-ji.

3. 3. Daigo-ji

   The oldest building in Kyoto does not stand in the city centre but in the southeastern hills, at the temple of Daigo-ji: a five storey pagoda completed in 951, which has survived fires, earthquakes and wars that destroyed almost everything else of its age in the city. The temple was founded in the ninth century on Mount Daigo, and its grounds spread from the foot of the mountain to the summit, linked by a steep path, with halls, gardens and sub temples along the way. It is part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto World Heritage Site.

   Read the complete Daigo-ji write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 67 km into the recorded legs you reach Daigo-ji. Next is back through Kôfuku-ji.

4. 4. back through Kôfuku-ji

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Kôfuku-ji write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Kôfuku-ji, late in the day. Next is Nishiumazuka Kofun.

5. 5. Nishiumazuka Kofun

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Nishiumazuka Kofun write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Back at Nishiumazuka Kofun. That is the ride.