Nijo-jo and Nara Palace Site

Scenic road chapters

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Nijo-jo

   Nijo Castle is not really a castle, in the sense of a stronghold, but a palace dressed up as one. The first shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, Tokugawa Ieyasu, built it in 1603 as his residence in Kyoto, to show the emperor and the nobles who held real power in Japan, and his grandson Iemitsu added to it in the 1620s. The Ninomaru Palace, the main building, has long corridors with floors that squeak like nightingales when walked on, a feature meant to warn of intruders, and rooms covered in gold-leaf screens painted with tigers, pines and eagles by the Kano school. The style was intended to impress and intimidate visiting lords.

   Read the complete Nijo-jo write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Nijo-jo is where the day begins. Next is Ujigami-jinja.

2. 2. Ujigami-jinja

   Uji is a small city on the river of the same name, south of Kyoto, and it holds two treasures that face each other across the water. On the west bank stands the Byōdō-in, a temple whose Phoenix Hall, built in 1053, appears on the Japanese ten-yen coin. On the east bank, up a quiet lane, is Ujigami-jinja, a modest shrine whose main hall is considered the oldest surviving Shinto shrine building in Japan, dating from the late Heian period, in the eleventh century. Its simple wooden structure, with a cypress-bark roof, stands in a small courtyard surrounded by trees, and it is far less crowded than the Byōdō-in. Both are part of the UNESCO listing of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.

   Read the complete Ujigami-jinja write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Ujigami-jinja comes up about 19 km into the recorded legs. Next is Nara Palace Site.

3. 3. Nara Palace Site

   For most of the eighth century, Nara was the capital of Japan. The city, then called Heijō-kyō, was laid out on a grid modelled on the Chinese capital Chang'an, and at its northern end stood the imperial palace, Heijō-kyū, a vast compound of halls, offices and gardens. When the court moved away at the end of the century, the palace was abandoned and the land eventually returned to rice fields. Today the Nara Palace Site is a huge open space on the western side of the modern city, part of the UNESCO-listed Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara.

   Read the complete Nara Palace Site write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 49 km into the recorded legs you reach Nara Palace Site. Next is back through Ujigami-jinja.

4. 4. back through Ujigami-jinja

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Ujigami-jinja write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Ujigami-jinja, late in the day. Next is Nijo-jo.

5. 5. Nijo-jo

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Nijo-jo write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Back at Nijo-jo. That is the ride.