Nagatsuka Kofun and Tôdai-ji

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Nagatsuka Kofun

   Nagatsuka is another of the small tombs that dot Sakai's old Mozu cemetery, and it is a place to think about the city as a whole. Before it was a place of keyhole tombs it was already a harbour, and it remained one for centuries. In the sixteenth century Sakai was the greatest port in Japan and a self-governing merchant town, whose leading citizens negotiated with the warlords, imported guns and silk from abroad, and were among the first to meet Europeans. When Oda Nobunaga demanded a large sum of money from Sakai in 1568, the merchants eventually paid up and kept their trade, and the city became a source of firearms for his campaigns. Much of old Sakai was later burned and then flattened again in the Second World War, which is why so little remains.

   Read the complete Nagatsuka Kofun write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Nagatsuka Kofun is where the day begins. Next is Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area.

2. 2. Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area

   If you want to stand in front of the oldest wooden buildings in the world, this is the place. Hōryū-ji, a Buddhist temple in the town of Ikaruga south-west of Nara, was founded by Prince Shōtoku in the early seventh century, and although it burned and was rebuilt not long after, its central buildings, including the main hall and the five-storey pagoda, date from around the end of the seventh century. They were among the first sites in Japan inscribed by UNESCO, in 1993.

   Read the complete Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area comes up about 28 km into the recorded legs. Next is Tôdai-ji.

3. 3. Tôdai-ji

   Nothing quite prepares you for the scale of Tōdai-ji. You walk through the great Nandaimon gate, past two fierce wooden guardian kings carved in the thirteenth century by Unkei, Kaikei and their workshop, and there it is: the Daibutsuden, the Great Buddha Hall, for centuries the largest wooden building in the world, even though the current structure, rebuilt in the early eighteenth century, is smaller than the original. Inside sits the Daibutsu, a bronze Buddha some fifteen metres tall, commissioned by Emperor Shōmu and consecrated in 752 with a ceremony that drew monks from as far away as India. The temple is part of the UNESCO listing of Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara.

   Read the complete Tôdai-ji write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 46 km into the recorded legs you reach Tôdai-ji. Next is back through Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area.

4. 4. back through Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area, late in the day. Next is Nagatsuka Kofun.

5. 5. Nagatsuka Kofun

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Nagatsuka Kofun write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Back at Nagatsuka Kofun. That is the ride.