Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock and Shitsu Village in Sotome
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
143 km
Riding-time estimate
3 h 17
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
From Nagasaki it runs 143 km to Nagasaki; allow about 3 h 17 of riding. On the way it passes Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine, Shitsu Village in Sotome and back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine. The line favours views over speed.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock
Nagasaki has always lived off its harbour, and the harbour is a long, deep, hill-framed bay that looks, from the hillside streets, like a Scottish loch with a Japanese accent. The Kosuge Slip Dock sits on the eastern shore, a stone-lined cradle where ships were once hauled out of the water for repair. It dates from the very start of the Meiji era, the late 1860s, and was built with the help of Scottish engineers and a Scottish merchant, Thomas Glover. Mitsubishi took over the yard in the 1880s and the company is still building ships on the same shoreline today, which is why most of the neighbourhood is working industry rather than a museum.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock is where the day begins. Next is Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine.
2. Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine
From the sea, Hashima looks like a battleship: a small rocky island off Nagasaki surrounded by high concrete walls, crowded with tall, empty apartment blocks. The Japanese call it Gunkanjima, battleship island, and it is the most famous ruin of Japan's industrial age. Mitsubishi mined coal here from undersea seams from the late nineteenth century, and as the mine grew the island was extended with land reclaimed from the sea and built up with concrete housing, schools, a hospital and shops. At its peak it was one of the most densely populated places on Earth. When the mine closed in 1974, everyone left within weeks, and the island has been slowly crumbling ever since.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine comes up about 19 km into the recorded legs. Next is Shitsu Village in Sotome.
3. Shitsu Village in Sotome
Sotome is a stretch of rugged coast north of Nagasaki, where steep hills drop into the East China Sea, and the village of Shitsu clings to its slopes. During the centuries when Christianity was banned in Japan, the farmers and fishermen of this remote area kept their faith in secret, passing down prayers and rituals from generation to generation, hiding their devotion behind Buddhist and Shinto practices. When the ban was lifted in 1873, many of them returned to the Catholic Church. The Shitsu church, built in 1882 under the direction of the French missionary Marc Marie de Rotz, stands on a hill above the sea, a simple white building with a low profile designed to resist the strong winds. De Rotz was more than a priest: he taught the villagers to make bread, pasta and textiles, built a clinic and a workshop, and his legacy is still honoured locally. The village and church are part of the UNESCO listing of the Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Back at Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock. That is the ride.
Leg by leg
Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock to Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine
Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock → Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine is 19 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine to Shitsu Village in Sotome
Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine → Shitsu Village in Sotome is 52 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Shitsu Village in Sotome to back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine
Shitsu Village in Sotome → back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine is 52 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine to Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock
back through Takashima Coal Mine/ Hashima Coal Mine → Nagasaki Shipyard/ Kosuge Slip Dock is 19 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.