Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden and Arafune Cold Storage
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
366 km
Riding-time estimate
6 h 55
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
From Tokyo it runs 366 km to Tokyo; allow about 6 h 55 of riding. It goes by way of Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm, Takayama-sha Sericulture School, Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites and Arafune Cold Storage. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,200 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It suits an unhurried touring pace.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden
Ueno is where Tokyo keeps its museums, and the National Museum of Western Art sits at the park's southern edge, a few minutes on foot from the station. The building is the point. Le Corbusier drew it in the late 1950s to house a collection of European art that Japan had won back from France after the war, and it later joined the UNESCO list of his works spread across several countries. It is a raised concrete box on pillars with a ramp-like logic inside, meant to grow outward as the collection did. In the forecourt Rodin's Gate of Hell and The Thinker sit in the open air, and on a grey morning the bronze looks wonderfully out of place against the Tokyo sky.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden is where the day begins. Next is Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm.
2. Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm
Silk transformed modern Japan, and Gunma Prefecture was its heartland. In the village of Shimamura, now part of Isesaki, on the north bank of the Tone River, stands the farmhouse of Tajima Yahei, a sericulturist who developed a method of raising silkworms in the nineteenth century. He built a two-storey house with a ventilation structure on the roof, allowing air to circulate through the upper floor where the silkworms were kept, and his design was widely copied across Japan.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm comes up about 95 km into the recorded legs. Next is Takayama-sha Sericulture School.
3. Takayama-sha Sericulture School
Silk built modern Japan, and the hills of Gunma prefecture were its engine room. In the second half of the nineteenth century, farmhouses across this region raised silkworms on the upper floors, and the quality of the cocoons decided the fortunes of families and, eventually, of the nation's exports. At the Takayama-sha site in Fujioka, a farmer named Takayama Chōgorō developed a method of raising silkworms that balanced ventilation and temperature, and he trained students from across Japan in his large farmhouse. You can still see the building, with its distinctive roof vents running along the ridge, designed to let warm, moist air escape.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
At least about 123 km into the recorded legs you reach Takayama-sha Sericulture School. Next is Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites.
4. Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites
In 1872, barely four years after the Meiji Restoration had ended the rule of the shoguns, Japan's new government opened a model silk-reeling mill in the small town of Tomioka in Gunma prefecture. It hired a French engineer, Paul Brunat, imported French machinery, and recruited young women from across the country to learn the new techniques and take them home. The long brick buildings, a curious mix of Japanese timber framing and European brick, still stand, and the mill operated until 1987. In 2014 it was inscribed on the UNESCO list together with related sericulture sites, such as farms where silkworm rearing methods were improved and a cold storage cave used to control the hatching of eggs.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites, about halfway. Next is Arafune Cold Storage.
5. Arafune Cold Storage
High in the mountains of southwestern Gunma, near the border with Nagano, a series of stone-walled pits sit among the trees on a hillside. They look like ruins, and in a sense they are, but in their day they were cutting-edge technology. The Arafune cold storage, built in the early twentieth century, used the cold air flowing out of crevices in a rocky slope, a natural wind cave or fuketsu, to keep silkworm eggs cool and delay their hatching. This allowed silk farmers to raise several batches of silkworms a year instead of just one, greatly increasing production. At its peak, the facility stored eggs for farmers from across Japan and even abroad. It is part of the UNESCO listing of the Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites, inscribed in 2014, which tells the story of how Japan became the world's largest exporter of raw silk.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 366 km.
Leg by leg
Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden to Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm
Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden → Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm is 95 km of getting across. Ride it tidily and keep the enthusiasm for what comes after.
Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm to Takayama-sha Sericulture School
Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm → Takayama-sha Sericulture School is 28 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Takayama-sha Sericulture School to Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites
Takayama-sha Sericulture School → Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites is 23 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites to Arafune Cold Storage
Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites → Arafune Cold Storage is 32 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Arafune Cold Storage to back through Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites
Arafune Cold Storage → back through Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites to back through Takayama-sha Sericulture School
back through Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Sites → back through Takayama-sha Sericulture School is 21 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Takayama-sha Sericulture School to back through Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm
back through Takayama-sha Sericulture School → back through Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm is 29 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm to Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden
back through Tajima Yahei Sericulture Farm → Musée National des Beaux-Arts de l’Occiden is 103 km of getting across. Ride it tidily and keep the enthusiasm for what comes after.