Why this ride
322 km from Bad Ems to Bad Ems, about 5 h 58 of riding. It goes by way of Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24, Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof, Iversheim and Köln-Alteburg. The line favours views over speed.
CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
322 km from Bad Ems to Bad Ems, about 5 h 58 of riding. It goes by way of Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24, Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof, Iversheim and Köln-Alteburg. The line favours views over speed.
For about 31 km this is Moselle Wine Route, a road with a name of its own and a reason for it — expect company on a summer weekend. Early is better than fast.
51 km through ground somebody thought worth listing. The road passes it rather than bypassing it. Speed drops and stays down. Park rather than crawl through.
Bad Ems sits in a narrow, wooded bend of the Lahn river, where the valley is so steep that the town seems poured into the gap. It has been a spa since the Middle Ages, and by the nineteenth century it was one of the most fashionable in Europe. Kings, tsars and composers came to take the thermal waters, and the town is filled with grand hotels, a colonnaded Kurhaus and a Russian Orthodox church built for the Tsarist visitors. Dostoevsky came to take the cure in the 1870s, and in 1870 an incident in the park gave the town a place in history books.
Read the complete Limessection between watchtowers WP 1/93 a write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Limessection between watchtowers WP 1/93 a is where the day begins. Next is Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24.
The Upper German-Raetian Limes began at the Rhine, at Rheinbrohl, and climbed into the hills on the east bank, and towers WP 1/23 and 1/24, near the wine village of Leutesdorf, are among the first along its route. They are now marked by foundations or mounds in the forest above the river, and they are part of the World Heritage listing. From here the frontier ran for more than five hundred kilometres to the Danube, and it is fascinating to stand at the very beginning of such an enormous undertaking.
Read the complete Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 comes up about 31 km into the recorded legs. Next is Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof.
There is very little to see at first glance here, which is exactly what makes the place oddly moving. South of Bonn, in the edge of the Kottenforst near the Heiderhof quarter of Bad Godesberg and the town of Wachtberg, the forest floor hides the faint outlines of Roman practice camps. Legionaries stationed at the fortress of Bonna on the Rhine marched out here to train at the hard, boring work that won the empire its wars: digging ditches, throwing up earth ramparts and laying out a camp to the standard plan in a few hours. A handful of these training camps in the Kottenforst are part of the Lower German Limes, the Roman frontier along the Rhine recognised by UNESCO in 2021.
Read the complete Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 74 km into the recorded legs you reach Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof. Next is Iversheim.
Iversheim is a village in the valley of the Erft, at the northern edge of the Eifel, just downstream from the old spa town of Bad Münstereifel. It is known for one thing: a Roman lime-burning works, one of the best preserved in Europe. The Romans built a series of kilns here to burn limestone from the surrounding hills into quicklime, which was used to make mortar for the forts, towns and roads of the province of Lower Germany. The kilns were worked by detachments of soldiers from the Rhine legions, as inscriptions found on the site show.
Read the complete Iversheim write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Iversheim, about halfway. Next is Köln-Alteburg.
The Roman navy is not the first thing most people associate with Cologne, but for almost two centuries the Rhine fleet, the Classis Germanica, had its main base here at Alteburg, just south of the Roman city. The fort sat on a terrace above the river in what is now the leafy district of Marienburg, near Bayenthal, and from here warships patrolled the Rhine, carried supplies and soldiers, and kept watch on the frontier. The site belongs to the Lower Germanic Limes, listed by UNESCO in 2021, though today it lies mostly under villas, streets and gardens, with only traces and information boards to show where it stood.
Read the complete Köln-Alteburg write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Köln-Alteburg sits at 161 km, about halfway. Next is back through Iversheim.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Iversheim write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Iversheim comes up about 211 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 248 km into the recorded legs you reach back through Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof. Next is back through Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24, late in the day. Next is Limessection between watchtowers WP 1/93 a.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Limessection between watchtowers WP 1/93 a write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
The route ends here after 322 km.
Limessection between watchtowers WP 1/93 a → Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 is 31 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 → Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof is 43 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof → Iversheim is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Iversheim → Köln-Alteburg is 47 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Köln-Alteburg → back through Iversheim is 54 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Iversheim → back through Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof is 37 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Kottenforst Süd | Heiderhof → back through Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 is 43 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Watchtowers WP 1/23 to 1/24 → Limessection between watchtowers WP 1/93 a is 31 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.