Kučarin in Hrančići and Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
527 km
Riding-time estimate
12 h 48
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
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Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
From Prača it runs 527 km to Prača; allow about 12 h 48 of riding. It goes by way of Gvozno, Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup, Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar and Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,250 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It suits an unhurried touring pace.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Kučarin in Hrančići
Grey limestone slabs lie in the grass at Hrančići like a congregation that sat down six hundred years ago and never got up. These are stećci, the carved medieval tombstones that are found across Bosnia and Herzegovina and its neighbours, and the group at Kučarin is one of the sites included in the UNESCO listing of stećci graveyards in 2016. Some are plain chests, some are gabled like little houses, and a few carry reliefs of spirals, vines, shields or figures with raised hands that still nobody fully agrees how to read.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Kučarin in Hrančići is where the day begins. Next is Gvozno.
2. Gvozno
Out on the high karst plateau around Kalinovik, south of Sarajevo, the land opens into wide pastures and rocky hills at well over a thousand metres, ringed by the mountains of Treskavica, Lelija and Zelengora. Here and there, half-hidden in the grass, lie stećci, the carved medieval tombstones that are unique to this corner of the Balkans. The necropolis at Gvozno is one of the sites included in the UNESCO listing of stećci, which spans Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro and Serbia.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Gvozno comes up about 74 km into the recorded legs. Next is Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup.
3. Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
The Greek hillock, Grčka glavica, is a misleading name: the medieval tombstones that crown it have nothing to do with Greece. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, folk tradition often credited the stećci, the great carved medieval tombstones of the region, to Greeks, giants or other mysterious ancestors, and the names have stuck. The necropolis near the village of Biskup, in the hills south of Konjic, is a group of these stones, some decorated with reliefs of crosses, rosettes, hunting scenes or figures, and it is one of the sites in the UNESCO listing of stećci medieval tombstone graveyards, listed in 2016.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 126 km into the recorded legs you reach Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup. Next is Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar.
4. Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar
The Old Bridge in Mostar is a single stone arch, slender and impossibly high, leaping across the emerald-green Neretva between two fortified towers. The Ottomans built it in the 1560s, designed by an architect named Mimar Hayruddin, and for more than four centuries it stood as a symbol of the city. On 9 November 1993, during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina, it was shelled and collapsed into the river. It was rebuilt with the original techniques and stone recovered from the riverbed and reopened in 2004, and the following year UNESCO listed the Old Bridge Area as a symbol of reconciliation and cultural coexistence.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar, about halfway. Next is Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards.
5. Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards
Radimlja, just outside Stolac in Herzegovina, is the finest of the stećak graveyards, and it lies right beside the main road, which makes it one of the easiest pieces of medieval Europe to stop for. Stećci are massive limestone tombstones, shaped like chests, slabs or little gabled houses, carved between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries across the medieval kingdom of Bosnia and neighbouring lands. Many are decorated with reliefs: spirals, vines, crescents, stars, hunting scenes, dancers holding hands, and knights with swords and shields, and one figure at Radimlja raises an oversized right hand in what may be a greeting or a blessing. In 2016 UNESCO listed a group of these graveyards across four countries together.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar comes up about 298 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup.
7. back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 527 km.
Leg by leg
Kučarin in Hrančići to Gvozno
Kučarin in Hrančići → Gvozno is 74 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Gvozno to Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
Gvozno → Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup is 52 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup to Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar
Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup → Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar is 105 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar to Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards
Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar → Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards to back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar
Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards → back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar is 33 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar to back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar → back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup is 101 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup to back through Gvozno
back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup → back through Gvozno is 55 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Gvozno to Kučarin in Hrančići
back through Gvozno → Kučarin in Hrančići is 74 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.