Why this ride
From Kuleaen it runs 296 km to Kuleaen; allow about 5 h 26 of riding. It goes by way of Banteay Srei, Roluos and back through Banteay Srei. The line favours views over speed.
CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
From Kuleaen it runs 296 km to Kuleaen; allow about 5 h 26 of riding. It goes by way of Banteay Srei, Roluos and back through Banteay Srei. The line favours views over speed.
For a few short decades in the tenth century, the capital of the Khmer empire was not at Angkor but here, deep in the forest of northern Cambodia. King Jayavarman IV established his court at Koh Ker, then called Lingapura, and in less than twenty years his builders raised dozens of temples across a wide area, before the capital returned to Angkor. The jungle took the city back. Today Koh Ker is a scatter of brick and sandstone sanctuaries among the trees, and in 2023 it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Read the complete Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li is where the day begins. Next is Banteay Srei.
Most people come to Angkor for the giants, Angkor Wat and the Bayon, but the temple that many remember best is small, pink and astonishingly intricate. Banteay Srei, the "citadel of the women", stands about twenty-five kilometres northeast of the main Angkor group, and it was consecrated in 967, earlier than the great royal temples. It was built not by a king but by a high-ranking courtier, the Brahmin Yajnavaraha, and dedicated to Shiva. Its reddish sandstone is fine-grained and easy to carve, and the result is decoration so delicate it looks almost like woodwork: lintels with scenes from Hindu epics, female guardian deities in niches, and foliage spiralling across every surface.
Read the complete Banteay Srei write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Banteay Srei comes up about 108 km into the recorded legs. Next is Roluos.
Roluos is where the story of Angkor begins. About thirteen kilometres south-east of Siem Reap, along the road toward Phnom Penh, a cluster of brick and sandstone temples marks Hariharalaya, the capital of the Khmer kings in the late ninth century. Before the great monuments of Angkor Wat and the Bayon were built, the rulers lived and built here, and the three main temples show the first mature forms of Khmer architecture. Preah Ko was dedicated in 879 by Indravarman I, and Bakong, a few years later, was the first great temple mountain, a stepped pyramid with elephants in stone at the corners, representing Mount Meru, the home of the gods.
Read the complete Roluos write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 149 km into the recorded legs you reach Roluos. Next is back through Banteay Srei.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Banteay Srei write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Banteay Srei, late in the day. Next is Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Back at Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li. That is the ride.
Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li → Banteay Srei is 108 km of getting across. Ride it tidily and keep the enthusiasm for what comes after.
Banteay Srei → Roluos is 41 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Roluos → back through Banteay Srei is 39 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Banteay Srei → Koh Ker: Archaeological Site of Ancient Li is 108 km of getting across. Ride it tidily and keep the enthusiasm for what comes after.