Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi and Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
364 km
Riding-time estimate
7 h 22
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
364 km from Kalwaria Zebrzydowska to Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, about 7 h 22 of riding. On the way it passes Historic Centre of Kraków, Salt Mine in Bochnia, Church of St Leonard and Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less. The line favours views over speed.
Scenic road chapters
Polish Eagles Nests Route
Expect company on a summer weekend. Early is better than fast. For about 36 km this is Polish Eagles Nests Route, a road with a name of its own and a reason for it.
Chapter facts
Length
36 km
Named road
Polish Eagles Nests Route
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi
In 1600, Mikołaj Zebrzydowski, a Polish nobleman, began to build a chapel on a hill south-west of Kraków, modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Over the following decades, he and his descendants added dozens of chapels and churches spread over the hills, laid out to recreate the Passion of Christ and the life of the Virgin, with the landscape itself standing in for Jerusalem. The result, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Poland and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi is where the day begins. Next is Historic Centre of Kraków.
2. Historic Centre of Kraków
Every hour, a trumpeter plays a short melody from the taller tower of St Mary's Basilica on Kraków's market square, and every time the tune breaks off abruptly mid-phrase. Legend says it commemorates a watchman shot by a Tatar arrow in the throat as he sounded the alarm in the thirteenth century, and the hejnał has been played that way ever since, broadcast daily on Polish radio at noon. It is a fitting introduction to a city that wears its history so openly. The Rynek Główny, the main square, is one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, with the Renaissance Cloth Hall in the middle, and the historic centre, including Wawel Hill and the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz, was among the first sites ever placed on the UNESCO list in 1978.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Historic Centre of Kraków comes up about 36 km into the recorded legs. Next is Salt Mine in Bochnia.
3. Salt Mine in Bochnia
People were mining salt at Bochnia by the middle of the thirteenth century, which makes it the oldest salt mine in Poland and one of the oldest in Europe still open to visitors. For centuries the salt from here and from Wieliczka, about twenty-five kilometres to the west, filled the coffers of the Polish kings; at times it accounted for a remarkable share of the royal income. Together the two mines and the royal castle at Wieliczka form a UNESCO World Heritage site.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 77 km into the recorded legs you reach Salt Mine in Bochnia. Next is Church of St Leonard.
4. Church of St Leonard
The hills around Limanowa in southern Poland have a nickname that suits them perfectly: the Beskid Wyspowy, the Island Beskids. Instead of forming a continuous ridge, the summits rise individually from the surrounding valleys like islands from a sea, each one wooded, rounded and separate. Driving through the area is a constant game of spotting the next hump on the horizon. The famous wooden church of St Leonard stands at Lipnica Murowana, in the hills to the north of here, and it is one of the Wooden Churches of Southern Lesser Poland listed by UNESCO in 2003.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Church of St Leonard, about halfway. Next is Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less.
5. Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less
Hidden among the hills of the Beskid Sądecki, close to the Slovak border in southern Poland, the little wooden church at Powroźnik is one of the oldest of its kind still standing in the country. Its oldest parts date from around 1600, and it belongs to the group of wooden tserkvas of the Carpathian region listed by UNESCO in 2013. A tserkva is an Eastern-rite church, and this one was built by the Lemkos, the Rusyn highlanders who farmed these valleys for centuries until most were forcibly resettled after the Second World War. Today it serves as a Catholic church, but the shape tells its origin story at once: a tower with a bulging onion-like cap, stepped shingle roofs and dark timber walls weathered almost black.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 364 km.
Leg by leg
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi to Historic Centre of Kraków
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi → Historic Centre of Kraków is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Historic Centre of Kraków to Salt Mine in Bochnia
Historic Centre of Kraków → Salt Mine in Bochnia is 41 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Salt Mine in Bochnia to Church of St Leonard
Salt Mine in Bochnia → Church of St Leonard is 46 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of St Leonard to Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less
Church of St Leonard → Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less is 58 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less to back through Church of St Leonard
Powroźnik-Tserkva of Saint James the Less → back through Church of St Leonard is 58 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of St Leonard to back through Salt Mine in Bochnia
back through Church of St Leonard → back through Salt Mine in Bochnia is 46 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Salt Mine in Bochnia to back through Historic Centre of Kraków
back through Salt Mine in Bochnia → back through Historic Centre of Kraków is 41 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Historic Centre of Kraków to Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi
back through Historic Centre of Kraków → Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Archi is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.