The recorded total and the leg detail need reconciliation. Inspect the leg notes before using this record for timing or navigation. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
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From Stulpicani it runs 270 km to Stulpicani; allow about 6 h 22 of riding. It goes by way of Church of St George of the former Voronet, Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap, Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of and Churches of Moldavia. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,100 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Codrul Secular Slătioara
Slătioara is old-growth forest of the kind that Europe has mostly lost. The reserve, tucked into the slopes of the Rarău and Giumalău ranges above the Moldova valley, protects beech, fir and spruce that have never been seriously logged, and it is part of the Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians that UNESCO recognised. Walk under the canopy and you notice the scale first: trunks as thick as a doorway, fallen giants furred with moss, and a dim green light even at noon.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Codrul Secular Slătioara is where the day begins. Next is Church of St George of the former Voronet.
2. Church of St George of the former Voronet
Voroneț is known as the Sistine Chapel of the East, and it earned the name with a colour. The little church of St George, built in 1488 by Stephen the Great, prince of Moldavia, is covered inside and out with frescoes, and the outside, especially, glows with a deep blue that has never been exactly replicated and is now called Voroneț blue. The west wall carries a vast Last Judgment, added in 1547, in which rivers of fire pull the damned toward the pit while saints, angels and a procession of animals look on. Legend says that Stephen built the church in three months, three weeks and three days after a victory over the Ottomans.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Church of St George of the former Voronet comes up 28 km in. Next is Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap.
3. Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap
Arbore is a village in Bucovina, in the north of Romania, and its church is one of the famous painted churches of Moldavia. It was built in 1503 by Luca Arbore, a nobleman at the court of Stephen the Great, and dedicated to the Beheading of St John the Baptist. Like the other painted churches of the region, its exterior walls are covered with frescoes, applied in the sixteenth century to teach the Bible to ordinary people who could not read. Arbore's frescoes, painted around 1541, are known for their green tones, and while weather has faded the walls facing the prevailing wind, the west facade still shows scenes of the Last Judgement, saints and the Book of Genesis in remarkable detail. UNESCO lists it among the eight churches of northern Moldavia.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
56 km in you reach Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap. Next is Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of.
4. Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of
The painted monasteries of Bukovina are among the most extraordinary buildings in Europe, and the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin at Humor, just outside Gura Humorului in north-eastern Romania, is one of the finest. Built in 1530 and painted inside and out a few years later, it belongs to the group of churches that were inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1993. The outer walls are covered with frescoes in rich shades of red and brown, telling biblical stories and lives of saints to people who could not read.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of, about halfway. Next is Churches of Moldavia.
5. Churches of Moldavia
Sucevița is the last and the largest of the great painted monasteries of Bucovina, and when you come down into its valley and see it for the first time, a squat fortress of white walls and towers with a church inside painted from eaves to plinth in deep greens, reds and blues, it stops you in your tracks. It was built in the 1580s and 1590s by the Movilă family, princes and churchmen of Moldavia, and its frescoes are among the best preserved of all the painted churches. UNESCO groups it with seven others as the churches of Moldavia.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 270 km.
Leg by leg
Codrul Secular Slătioara to Church of St George of the former Voronet
Codrul Secular Slătioara → Church of St George of the former Voronet is 28 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of St George of the former Voronet to Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap
Church of St George of the former Voronet → Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap is 31 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap to Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of
Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap → Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of is 22 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of to Churches of Moldavia
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of → Churches of Moldavia is 31 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Churches of Moldavia to back through Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of
Churches of Moldavia → back through Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of is 31 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of to back through Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap
back through Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of → back through Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap is 22 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap to back through Church of St George of the former Voronet
back through Church of the Beheading of St John the Bap → back through Church of St George of the former Voronet is 31 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of St George of the former Voronet to Codrul Secular Slătioara
back through Church of St George of the former Voronet → Codrul Secular Slătioara is 28 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.