The recorded total and the leg detail need reconciliation. Inspect the leg notes before using this record for timing or navigation. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
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458 km from Gâlgău to Gâlgău, about 10 h 10 of riding. It goes by way of Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3, Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci, Church of Saint Nicholas and Kuziy - Trybushany. It crosses from Romania into Ukraine - carry ID and check vignette or toll rules. The line favours views over speed.
Scenic road chapters
Romania Maramures Wooden Churches Route
Expect company on a summer weekend. Early is better than fast. For 37 km this is Romania Maramures Wooden Churches Route, a road with a name of its own and a reason for it.
Chapter facts
Length
37 km
Named road
Romania Maramures Wooden Churches Route
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Căpâlna - Dealul Hanului
Somewhere above the Someș valley, on a hill the villagers call Dealul Hanului, the inn hill, the Romans kept watch over the northern edge of their province of Dacia. After Trajan's conquest in 106, the new province had to be defended on all sides, and its northern frontier, in what the Romans called Dacia Porolissensis, ran through these hills between the Meseș mountains and the upper Someș. Forts, watchtowers and earthworks controlled the valleys, and Căpâlna, near the village of Gâlgău, is one of the many small sites that formed that network, part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire in Dacia that Romania has put forward for UNESCO listing.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Căpâlna - Dealul Hanului is where the day begins. Next is Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3.
2. Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3
Ciceu-Poieni is a scattered village in the hills of Bistrița-Năsăud county, with the ruins of Ciceu fortress somewhere in the story. The stronghold stood on a hilltop here, and in the fifteenth century Hungary's King Matthias Corvinus granted it, along with Cetatea de Baltă, to the Moldavian prince Stephen the Great, which tied this remote corner of Transylvania to Moldavia's fortunes for decades. Today little remains but crumbling walls and a good view, but the history gives the hills a certain weight.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 comes up 37 km in. Next is Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci.
3. Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci
The Țibleș massif rises like a dark green wall between Maramureș and the Bistrița country of northern Romania, an old volcanic range topped by the Țibleș peak at around eighteen hundred metres. On its southern flanks, above the village of Groșii Țibleșului, lie the forests of Preluci, part of the Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe that UNESCO has protected as one sprawling, multi-country site. These are woods left largely to themselves, where old beeches grow huge, fall, rot and feed the next generation without a forester in sight.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
74 km in you reach Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci. Next is Church of Saint Nicholas.
4. Church of Saint Nicholas
Budești is one of the old villages of the Cosău valley in Maramureș, the far northern corner of Romania, where traditional life has survived longer than almost anywhere else in Europe. Its wooden church of St Nicholas, built in the seventeenth century, is a masterpiece of the local carpentry tradition: a dark timber body with a tall, steep shingled roof and a slender spire that seems to pierce the sky. Inside, the walls are covered with painted scenes from the Bible, and among the church's treasures is a coat of chain mail said to have belonged to Pintea the Brave, a legendary outlaw hero of the region. The church is one of eight in the UNESCO listing of the Wooden Churches of Maramureș.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Church of Saint Nicholas, about halfway. Next is Kuziy - Trybushany.
5. Kuziy - Trybushany
The river Tisza runs fast and green out of the Ukrainian Carpathians, and for many kilometres it forms the border between Romania and Ukraine. On the Ukrainian bank, the forests of Kuziy and Trybushany are among the primeval beech woods protected in the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve and listed by UNESCO as part of the Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe. From the Romanian side, around Valea Vișeului, you look across the river at steep, wooded slopes where the trees have grown and died without interference for centuries.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 458 km.
Leg by leg
Căpâlna - Dealul Hanului to Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3
Căpâlna - Dealul Hanului → Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 to Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci
Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 → Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci is 38 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci to Church of Saint Nicholas
Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci → Church of Saint Nicholas is 37 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Church of Saint Nicholas to Kuziy - Trybushany
Church of Saint Nicholas → Kuziy - Trybushany is 37 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Kuziy - Trybushany to back through Church of Saint Nicholas
Kuziy - Trybushany → back through Church of Saint Nicholas is 37 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Church of Saint Nicholas to back through Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci
back through Church of Saint Nicholas → back through Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci is 37 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci to back through Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3
back through Groșii Țibleșului - Preluci → back through Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 is 38 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 to Căpâlna - Dealul Hanului
back through Ciceu-Poieni - Fața Carpenului 3 → Căpâlna - Dealul Hanului is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.