Banteay Srei and Roluos

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Banteay Srei

   Most people come to Angkor for the giants, Angkor Wat and the Bayon, but the temple that many remember best is small, pink and astonishingly intricate. Banteay Srei, the "citadel of the women", stands about twenty-five kilometres northeast of the main Angkor group, and it was consecrated in 967, earlier than the great royal temples. It was built not by a king but by a high-ranking courtier, the Brahmin Yajnavaraha, and dedicated to Shiva. Its reddish sandstone is fine-grained and easy to carve, and the result is decoration so delicate it looks almost like woodwork: lintels with scenes from Hindu epics, female guardian deities in niches, and foliage spiralling across every surface.

   Read the complete Banteay Srei write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Banteay Srei is where the day begins. Next is Angkor.

2. 2. Angkor

   Angkor is the great stone capital of the Khmer empire, spread across more than four hundred square kilometres of forest and rice field a few kilometres north of Siem Reap. The empire ruled much of mainland Southeast Asia between the ninth and the fifteenth centuries, and its kings built huge temples as symbols of the cosmos. Angkor Wat, built in the twelfth century by Suryavarman II and dedicated to Vishnu, is the largest religious monument in the world, with five towers rising like lotus buds above a vast moat. Its long walls carry carved reliefs of battles and myths, and it was later converted into a Buddhist temple that is still in use.

   Read the complete Angkor write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Angkor comes up about 31 km into the recorded legs. Next is Roluos.

3. 3. Roluos

   Roluos is where the story of Angkor begins. About thirteen kilometres south-east of Siem Reap, along the road toward Phnom Penh, a cluster of brick and sandstone temples marks Hariharalaya, the capital of the Khmer kings in the late ninth century. Before the great monuments of Angkor Wat and the Bayon were built, the rulers lived and built here, and the three main temples show the first mature forms of Khmer architecture. Preah Ko was dedicated in 879 by Indravarman I, and Bakong, a few years later, was the first great temple mountain, a stepped pyramid with elephants in stone at the corners, representing Mount Meru, the home of the gods.

   Read the complete Roluos write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 60 km into the recorded legs you reach Roluos. Next is back through Angkor.

4. 4. back through Angkor

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Angkor write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Angkor, late in the day. Next is Banteay Srei.

5. 5. Banteay Srei

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Banteay Srei write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Back at Banteay Srei. That is the ride.