Baekje Historic Areas and Naseong City Wall

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Baekje Historic Areas

   Gongju is where the kingdom of Baekje retreated when it was almost destroyed. In 475 the armies of Goguryeo, the northern rival, swept south and took the capital at Hanseong, near modern Seoul, killing the king, and the survivors moved the court to Ungjin, as Gongju was then called, a defensible site on the Geum river with a fortress on the hill above. For about sixty years it served as the capital, until the court moved further south to Sabi, now Buyeo, in 538. The UNESCO listing of Baekje Historic Areas, in 2015, covers Gongju, Buyeo and Iksan.

   Read the complete Baekje Historic Areas write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Baekje Historic Areas is where the day begins. Next is Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri.

2. 2. Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri

   Seven grassy mounds rise on a hillside outside Buyeo, smooth and green, looking almost like a landscape garden. They are the royal tombs of Neungsan-ri, burial places of kings of Baekje, one of the three kingdoms of ancient Korea, during the period when Buyeo, then called Sabi, was its capital, from 538 to 660. The tombs were robbed long ago, but their stone chambers survive, and one has painted walls showing the guardian animals of the four directions and lotus flowers. They are part of the UNESCO listing of the Baekje historic areas, together with sites in Gongju, Buyeo and Iksan.

   Read the complete Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri comes up about 33 km into the recorded legs. Next is Donam-seown.

3. 3. Donam-seown

   Donam Seowon is a Confucian academy in the countryside near Nonsan, in South Chungcheong province, and it is one of nine seowon that UNESCO listed together in 2019. Seowon were private academies founded by scholars of the Joseon dynasty, where young men studied the Confucian classics and honoured the memory of great teachers through rituals. Donam was founded in the early seventeenth century to commemorate Kim Jang-saeng, a renowned scholar of rites, and his students, and it played an important role in the intellectual life of the period.

   Read the complete Donam-seown write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 58 km into the recorded legs you reach Donam-seown. Next is Naseong City Wall.

4. 4. Naseong City Wall

   Buyeo was once called Sabi, and for more than a century in the sixth and seventh centuries it was the capital of Baekje, one of the three kingdoms of ancient Korea. Baekje was a seafaring, artistic state that traded with China, sent scholars and craftsmen to Japan, and shaped Japanese Buddhist art. The kingdom fell in 660 when a joint army of Silla and Tang China overran the capital. Naseong, the outer city wall, is what remains of Sabi's defences: a long earthen rampart that once enclosed the town, running along the hills to the north and east and meeting the Geum River, which formed a natural moat on the other side. You can walk sections of it under old pines, and the grassy mounds are quiet and unassuming.

   Read the complete Naseong City Wall write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Naseong City Wall, about halfway. Next is back through Donam-seown.

5. 5. back through Donam-seown

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Donam-seown write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Donam-seown sits at 129 km, about halfway. Next is back through Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri.

6. 6. back through Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   back through Royal Tombs in Neungsan-ri comes up about 135 km into the recorded legs. Next is Baekje Historic Areas.

7. 7. Baekje Historic Areas

   Return visit. Read the place description above.

   Read the complete Baekje Historic Areas write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Baekje Historic Areas closes the day.