1. Versailles exit gate
Versailles is a place that rewards a rider who turns up early. The great château that Louis XIV built, and where French kings lived until 1789, sits at the end of three wide avenues whose scale was designed to impress, and the gilded gates and cobbled courtyard are unforgettable at dawn, before the coaches arrive. At 132 metres above sea level the town lies on a plateau west of Paris, and it makes an elegant starting point for a ride into the countryside.
Read the complete Versailles exit gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Versailles exit is where the day begins. Next is Dampierre-en-Yvelines bends.
2. Dampierre-en-Yvelines bends
Dampierre-en-Yvelines is dominated by a house that thinks it is bigger than the village, and it is right. The Château de Dampierre, built in the seventeenth century by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the architect of Versailles, for the Duke of Chevreuse, is a grand brick-and-stone palace set in a formal park with a long canal. It has belonged to the Luynes family ever since, and inside, one gallery contains murals painted by the great neoclassical artist Ingres, a rare example of his work on a domestic scale. The château is open for visits at certain times of year, and is worth a stop.
Read the complete Dampierre-en-Yvelines bends write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Dampierre-en-Yvelines bends comes up 38 km in. Next is Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay.
3. Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay
The Vaux de Cernay is a quiet, rocky, wooded valley in the Haute Vallée de Chevreuse, and the abbey in its hollow is one of the prettiest ruins within an hour of Paris. A group of monks founded it in 1118, and in 1147 it joined the Cistercian order, the austere reformers who preferred remote valleys, running water and hard work. For centuries the abbey prospered, owning mills, fish ponds and forests, until the Revolution scattered the monks and the buildings fell into decay. Gothic arches, a ruined church and sections of cloister now stand among the trees, and ivy has crept over much of the stonework.
Read the complete Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
77 km in you reach Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay. Next is Rambouillet forest loop.
4. Rambouillet forest loop
Rambouillet is the town where a king died and a president spends his summers. François I, the Renaissance monarch who brought Leonardo da Vinci to France, died in the château of Rambouillet in 1547, and the building, a mix of medieval towers and later wings, has been a royal and then presidential residence ever since. It is surrounded by a large park, partly formal and partly wild, and by one of the largest forests in the Paris region, over twenty thousand hectares of oak, beech and pine.
Read the complete Rambouillet forest loop write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Rambouillet forest loop, early in the day at 165 m. Next is Back to Versailles.
5. Back to Versailles
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Versailles exit gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Finish at Back to Versailles. That is the ride. Next is Vallée de l’Eure Easy Scenic.
6. Fuel stop in Voisins-le-Bretonneux
Voisins-le-Bretonneux is part of Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, one of the new towns built around Paris from the 1970s onwards, and on first sight it is all office parks, roundabouts and housing estates. But it sits right on the edge of something much older and lovelier: the Haute Vallée de Chevreuse, a regional natural park of wooded valleys, streams, villages and châteaux just south of Versailles.
Read the complete Fuel stop in Voisins-le-Bretonneux write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Vallée de l’Eure Easy Scenic is the fuel stop for this leg. Next is Food stop near Saint-Arnoult-en-Yvelines.
7. Food stop near Saint-Arnoult-en-Yvelines
Saint-Arnoult-en-Yvelines lies on the southern edge of the forest of Rambouillet, one of the largest forests in the Paris region, where the woods begin to give way to the wide, open fields of the Beauce. The village has an old church, a few streets of stone houses and the gentle air of a place where Parisians come for the weekend.
Read the complete Food stop near Saint-Arnoult-en-Yvelines write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
A break here. Next is Scenic stretch near Nandy.
8. Scenic stretch near Nandy
Nandy is a small town on the edge of the forest of Sénart, south-east of Paris, on the high ground above the Seine between Corbeil-Essonnes and Melun. From the edge of the plateau, you can look down on the river as it winds through its wide valley, with barges moving slowly along it and the wooded slopes rising on the far side.
Read the complete Scenic stretch near Nandy write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Scenic stretch near Nandy, about halfway. Next is High point near Tournan-en-Brie.
9. High point near Tournan-en-Brie
Brie is a cheese before it is a place for most people, but the plateau east of Paris that gave the cheese its name is a real landscape: wide, flat and fertile, with huge fields of wheat and sugar beet, scattered farms with walled courtyards and patches of forest. Tournan-en-Brie is a small town on this plateau, with an old church and a railway station that links it to the capital, and it makes a practical stop on the edge of the countryside.
Read the complete High point near Tournan-en-Brie write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
The high point of this section. Next is Paris / Île-de-France escapes return.
10. Near Pont-Sainte-Maxence, on the way back
North of Senlis the Oise runs in a broad, flat-bottomed valley between two great forests, Halatte to the south and Compiègne to the north-east. This stop lies in that valley between Verberie and Pontpoint, a few kilometres upstream of Pont-Sainte-Maxence, where barges still push along the river and gravel pits have turned old meadows into chains of lakes.
Read the complete Near Pont-Sainte-Maxence, on the way back write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Paris / Île-de-France escapes return comes up 344 km in. Next is Photo stop in Blaincourt-lès-Précy.
11. Photo stop in Blaincourt-lès-Précy
The Oise valley north of Paris is a quiet, green corridor, and Blaincourt-lès-Précy is one of its villages, a cluster of houses and farms on the edge of the river plain. It is a place where the Paris region fades into the countryside of Picardy, with fields, woods and old stone villages, and it makes a peaceful stop on a ride through the valley.
Read the complete Photo stop in Blaincourt-lès-Précy write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
383 km in you reach Photo stop in Blaincourt-lès-Précy. Next is Vallée de l’Eure Easy Scenic checkpoint 8.
12. Le Raincy
Le Raincy is a small, leafy town on the eastern edge of Paris, a place of large villas, quiet streets and old trees, surrounded by much busier neighbours like Bondy and Montfermeil. It was once part of a vast estate belonging to the Orléans family, and when the land was divided in the nineteenth century, it was laid out as a residential park for the well-to-do. That gives it a calm, slightly old-fashioned feel that contrasts with the motorways a few kilometres away.
Read the complete Le Raincy write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
The route ends here after 459 km. Next is Back to Vallée de.
13. Back to Vallée de
Planned in the 1960s and built over the following decades, it is a district of roundabouts, cycle paths, office parks and lakes, sitting on the plateau west of the Chevreuse valley, and the people who live here are mostly commuters to Paris and La Défense.
Read the complete Vallée de write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Back to Vallée de closes the day.