1. Chur eastbound gate
Chur likes to call itself the oldest town in Switzerland, and the claim holds up better than most: people have lived on this spot, where the Plessur meets the Rhine, for several thousand years. It became the seat of a bishop in late Roman times, and the cathedral on the hill still keeps that tradition alive. Today the city has around thirty thousand residents and sits at 593 metres, the gateway to Graubünden, with fuel, supermarkets, bakeries and restaurants everywhere a rider could want. As a start point it is practical and charming at once.
Read the complete Chur eastbound gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Chur eastbound is where the day begins. Next is Ofenpass approach, climbing 1556 m.
2. Ofenpass approach
The Ofenpass, which the Romansh call Pass dal Fuorn, climbs through the only national park in Switzerland. The park was founded in 1914 and the road is the single way to see it by bike, so the rules matter: stay on the road, stop only where parking is allowed, and leave the ibex, red deer and marmots to their own devices.
Read the complete Ofenpass approach write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
You top out at 2149 m here. The road climbs 1556 m on the way up to it, steadily. At this height the road is a summer one: snow gates can stay shut into June and shut again in October. Next is Pordoi Pass.
3. Pordoi Pass
Pordoi is the high point of the Sella Ronda, a pass of 2,239 metres between the Fassa valley and Arabba, and for many people the one with the best view in the Dolomites. The road climbs from Canazei in about thirty hairpins to the saddle, where a big car park, a few restaurants and the cable car to Sass Pordoi cluster beneath the pale cliffs of the Sella massif. On a clear day, the rock turns pink and gold at dusk, the effect known locally as the enrosadira.
Read the complete Pordoi Pass write-up.
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Planning note
2239 m, and the road stops climbing. Nothing on this route is higher. Next is Campolongo Pass, mostly downhill.
4. Campolongo Pass
Campolongo is the quiet pass in a family of loud ones. At 1,875 metres it links Corvara in Alta Badia with Arabba and the upper valley of Livinallongo, and on the Sella Ronda it is the stretch that most riders ride without thinking, between the more famous climbs of Pordoi and Gardena. That undersells it. The road winds up through pasture and scattered spruce from Corvara with a long, relaxed run of hairpins, and from the top the whole of the Sella massif stands over you, a pale, castellated block of limestone that looks as if it was built rather than eroded.
Read the complete Campolongo Pass write-up.
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Planning note
The high point of this section, 1875 m up. You lose 364 m on the way down to it, steadily. High enough to hold ice in the shaded corners early and late in the year. Next is Gardena Pass, climbing 261 m.
5. Gardena Pass
Gardena Pass joins two Ladin valleys: Val Gardena on the north side, with Selva and Ortisei, and Alta Badia on the south, around Corvara. At roughly 2,100 metres it is one of the four passes that circle the Sella massif, and the road runs between the great rock walls of the Sassolungo and the Sella, with their pale dolomite faces that glow pink at sunset.
Read the complete Gardena Pass write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Gardena Pass tops the climb at 2136 m. The road climbs 261 m on the way up to it, steadily. Next is Val Gardena overnight base, mostly downhill.
6. Val Gardena overnight base
Val Gardena is the valley where the Dolomites speak Ladin. The language, a Romance tongue descended from the Latin of Roman soldiers, survives here in a handful of valleys, and in villages like Selva, Santa Cristina and Ortisei you will see three sets of names on every sign: German, Italian and Ladin, so Selva is also Wolkenstein and Sëlva. The altitude of 1,560 metres puts you in Selva, at the top end of the valley, where the road to the Sella and Gardena passes begins and the walls of the Dolomites are close enough to touch.
Read the complete Val Gardena overnight base write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Val Gardena overnight base comes up 397 km in. You lose 576 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Back to Chur, mostly downhill.
7. Back to Chur
At 593 metres, in a wide bend of the Rhine valley, Chur makes a strong claim to be the oldest town in Switzerland, with traces of settlement going back thousands of years and a Roman presence from the first century BC. It has been the seat of a bishop since late antiquity, and the bishop's court, with its cathedral, sits on a terrace above the old town. Down below, the narrow streets and squares of the Altstadt, with painted houses, fountains and arcades, are a pleasant place to wander after a morning in the saddle.
Read the complete Chur write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Back to Chur closes the day. You lose 967 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Glarus valley fuel, mostly downhill.
8. Glarus valley fuel
Glarus is a town that was burned down and rebuilt on a grid, and the grid is why the centre feels so unlike other Swiss towns. On 10 May 1861, a fire driven by the Föhn wind destroyed about a third of the town in a single night, and the rebuilding followed a plan of straight streets and regular blocks, an unusual layout for a mountain town. Today Glarus has just under six thousand people and serves as the capital of its small canton, in the narrow valley of the Linth, where steep limestone walls rise on both sides.
Read the complete Glarus valley fuel write-up.
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Planning note
You start here, at road level. Next is Klausenpass.
9. Klausenpass
The Klausenpass is a road that you only really understand once you are on it. It runs for nearly fifty kilometres between Altdorf in Uri and Linthal in Glarus, crossing a ridge at 1,948 metres, and unlike many Alpine passes it feels like a real journey from one world to another, from the green terraces of the Schächental to the broad, high pastures of the Urnerboden and then down into the Linth valley.
Read the complete Klausenpass write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
The high point of this section. Next is Altdorf lunch window.
10. Altdorf lunch window
Altdorf is where the legend of William Tell lives, and the town has the statue to prove it. In the main square, a bronze figure of the archer stands with his crossbow and his son, put up in the nineteenth century, and the whole place has a theatrical sense of being on a stage for a story that every Swiss child knows. Whether Tell existed or not, the tale of an apple, an arrow and a tyrant has become part of the way the country imagines itself.
Read the complete Altdorf lunch window write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Altdorf lunch window is where this day stops to eat. Next is Pragelpass high road.
11. Pragelpass high road
The Pragel is one of the narrowest and least known of the central Swiss passes, and for those who like their riding small-scale and quiet, it has a charm of its own. It climbs out of the Muotatal at Muotathal and crosses a ridge at 1,550 metres before dropping toward the Klöntal and the town of Glarus. The road is mostly a single lane wide with passing places, and that fact shapes the whole experience: you ride slowly, with attention, and you wave to oncoming drivers who pull in for you.
Read the complete Pragelpass high road write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Pragelpass high road is the summit of this stretch. Next is Walensee view stop.
12. Walensee view stop
The Walensee is a long, deep, intensely green lake wedged between steep mountains, and a stop above it is one of the best views on the road between Zürich and Chur. On the northern side, the seven peaks of the Churfirsten rise like a jagged wall nearly two thousand metres above the water, their limestone faces catching the light in the late afternoon. Behind you, the slopes of the Flumserberg drop to the shore, and the lake lies between the two walls like a fjord, with the wind whipping up whitecaps on a stormy day.
Read the complete Walensee view stop write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Walensee view stop, late in the day. Next is back to Glarus valley fuel.
13. back to Glarus valley fuel
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Glarus valley fuel write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
back to Glarus valley fuel closes the day.