Zyuratkul is a lake in the mountains, and for many Russians it is the place the Southern Urals are meant to look like. It sits at about seven hundred metres above sea level in a bowl of high ridges, in a national park of the same name, and the water is clear and cold, around three kilometres long, set against dark forest and a skyline of rounded peaks. The ridge behind rises to over a thousand metres, and in autumn the larch and birch on the slopes burn orange and gold against the evergreen.
The park protects some of the best remaining taiga in the range, a mix of spruce, fir, pine and birch, with moss, bilberry and fern underneath, and in the high clearings, meadow flowers in summer. Elk, brown bear, lynx and capercaillie live here, and the lake attracts ducks and other water birds. The scenery has long drawn visitors, and a few modest guest houses and holiday camps dot the shore, mostly built in the Soviet period, with a simple lakeside feel. It is a peaceful place, and the sound of the wind in the trees is usually the loudest thing around.
The road in is part of the pleasure. From Satka, it climbs through forest in a series of gentle curves, with the lake appearing suddenly through the trees, and the road continues along the valley. Surfaces are variable, with frost heave, gravel and patched tarmac, and you may find the final approach is rough, so go slowly and keep an eye out for animals. Fog and rain are common, and temperatures can drop sharply in the evening, even in July, so pack a warm layer. The best time is probably June to September, with early autumn the most beautiful. Winter brings deep snow and dark days, and the road may be difficult.
For services, think ahead. At the lake, small cafés and shops operate in season, though hours are unpredictable, and you should bring water and a snack. A park entrance fee may apply, and some areas require permission.
Walk down to the shore at dusk. The lake turns the colour of pewter, and the ridges go dark against the sky.