Zug sits on the northeast corner of its lake with the Alps behind it, and the first thing you notice is how neat everything is. The town has an old centre of lanes and arcades, a clock tower painted in blue and gold, the Zytturm, and a lakeside promenade that looks across the water to the long, green bulk of the Rigi. The town has become famous in recent decades as a corporate and financial centre, drawn by some of the lowest taxes in Switzerland, and a number of cryptocurrency firms have given the area the nickname of Crypto Valley. Yet the old streets still feel local and calm.
Zug is also known for its cherry cake, the Zuger Kirschtorte, a layered sponge of almond meringue, buttercream and cherry brandy that is a local pride, and for the Röteli, a small char that lives in the deep, cold lake. Restaurants along the shore serve it fried or grilled, with a glass of white wine and a view of the sunset. The lake is clean enough to swim in during the summer, and the lakefront has pontoons, diving boards and shaded lawns.
Across the lake, the Rigi, known as the queen of mountains, can be glimpsed on most clear days. In 1871 the first mountain railway in Europe opened on its slopes, at Vitznau, and trains still climb to the summit. The ride toward it from Zug runs along the lake and through orchards and farms, with views of the water and the peaks, and the roads bend gently between villages. Traffic can be busy near the town, particularly at commuting hours and on summer weekends, so aim for a quiet window.
As the exit of a day's ride, Zug is a pleasure. At 413 metres it is warm and sheltered, and fuel stations and parking are easy to find. A coffee on the lakefront, with the sun low over the water and the Rigi in silhouette, is hard to beat. Locals stroll the promenade at dusk, and the evening feels slow and civilised.