Mejmej is a rural district in the south-west of Djerba, a little way from Erriadh, and it feels like the island's countryside as it was before tourism: small fields of barley and vegetables between lines of olive trees, palm groves, and low white farmhouses behind hedges of prickly pear. The ground is flat and the horizon wide, and the sky looks bigger than it does on the mainland. A few kilometres to the south, the sea is shallow and warm, and the tide leaves long flats where people gather shellfish.
Djerba's olives are a staple. Some of the trees are very old, with trunks as thick as barrels, and olive oil has been pressed here for centuries, in old stone mills turned by camels or donkeys. The island also produces dates, figs, pomegranates and a famous variety of apple, and in the markets you can buy jars of harissa, bunches of dried herbs and honey. Women in the villages weave wool into striped blankets and shawls, and a traditional trade in pottery, linked to the clay of Guellala, continues in the south. Local people speak Arabic, and some in the villages speak Berber, a legacy of the early Ibadi communities.
The riding is slow and absorbing. Tracks cross the district in a lattice, some paved and some sandy, and the main roads that skirt it carry heavier traffic, including lorries and tourist coaches. Because the land is so flat, a headwind can make a ride hard, and a sandy gust can blow across the road, particularly in spring. Few of the lanes have signs, so stop and ask if you lose your way, as locals are usually friendly and curious. At dusk, take care of animals and of unlit scooters.
Erriadh, about four kilometres away, has shops and cafes, and Houmt Souk to the north has fuel stations and a good selection of places to eat and sleep, while Midoun lies on the opposite side of the island. A good way to finish the day is to head to the coast at Aghir or Sidi Mahrez for the sunset, and to try fresh fish at a simple restaurant. Remember that the sun here is strong, even in winter, and carry water.