Houmt Souk is the main town of Djerba, the low flat island off the south-east coast of Tunisia that Greek legend identified as the land of the lotus-eaters, where Odysseus's men forgot their homeward journey after eating a sweet fruit. The island is only a short ferry hop or a Roman causeway from the mainland, and its main town sits on the north coast, a sprawl of whitewashed houses, arcaded squares and market lanes around a small harbour. The name means market quarter, and its alleys still hold stalls of spices, leather slippers, silver and pottery, with a daily fish market down by the quay.
A squat sea fortress, Borj el Kebir, built by the Spanish in the fifteenth century and later rebuilt by the Ottomans, guards the harbour. It has a gruesome history, since in 1560 an Ottoman fleet crushed a Christian expedition here, and the bones of the dead were piled into a tower that stood for three centuries. Today the fort is a museum, and the view from the ramparts over the boats and the flat blue gulf is pleasant. The town has several old caravanserais, called fondouks, and mosques of the local Ibadi tradition, in which whitewashed domes and buttressed walls give an almost fortified look.
Djerba is a gentle island to ride around, with roads that are mostly straight and level, lined with olive groves, date palms and whitewashed farm compounds. The speed limits are low and enforced, and the traffic includes scooters, tourist buses, donkey carts and the occasional camel, so do not expect speed. Strong winds can blow in from the sea, bringing sand across the road, and in summer the heat is intense by midday. Spring and autumn are the pleasantest times to ride. At junctions and roundabouts, local driving can be improvised, so take care.
Houmt Souk has about sixty thousand people and plenty of fuel, restaurants and workshops. Grilled fish, brik pastries filled with egg and tuna, and strong sweet mint tea are the usual orders. The streets are busy in the morning and quiet after the midday meal, and evenings in the main square are lively. A visit to the nearby potters' village of Guellala, in the south of the island, shows how the craft has survived.