Armenia, Colombia, is not the best-known part of the country, but the hills around it are the heart of the Eje Cafetero, the coffee axis. The Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of several zones, and Zone D lies in Quindío, in the high green country close to Armenia, Circasia and Montenegro. This is where the coffee farms cling to steep slopes, shaded by plantain and tall guadua bamboo, and the farmhouses are painted in bright colours with carved balconies.
The landscape is a patchwork of small family farms that have grown coffee for generations, and the local culture is proud and welcoming. In Armenia, the old Willys jeeps, loaded with sacks and passengers, are a symbol, and they parade every year in the Yipao festival. A short ride away, the Parque Nacional del Café in Montenegro and the town of Salento, near the Cocora Valley with its towering wax palms, draw many visitors. Coffee itself is everywhere, served black, strong and sweet.
Armenia is a city of over three hundred thousand, with fuel, workshops and plenty of places to eat, and it was rebuilt after a powerful earthquake in January 1999 that devastated the region. The hills around have excellent riding roads, with long climbs and descents, tight bends and views over valleys full of coffee bushes and banana leaves. The surface is generally paved, but watch for potholes, landslide debris and heavy trucks. The weather is usually warm, with afternoon rain, and the roads can be slick.
The main rainy seasons are April to May and October to November, and the drier months from December to March offer the clearest views. Mornings are cool and misty, and the light across the hills is soft and gold. Stay at a working finca if you can, tour the plantation and taste a freshly roasted cup. The food, from bandeja paisa to fresh trout and arepas, is hearty and filling.